Agriculture Reference
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grape's anthocyanin profile explains why.
Cyanin and peonin, unstable anthocyanins that
oxidize easily (so that wines loaded with these
two pigments tend to drop their color over time)
represent over 60 percent of the total anthocy-
anins of Gaglioppo, with malvin, one of the
more stable pigments, barely over 15 percent of
the total (note that these percentages do not
change much even in the case of very ripe
grapes). There are no measurable acylated
anthocyanins (stable anthocyanin forms).
in an effort to improve their Gaglioppo wines.
Garofano greatly improved matters by suggest-
ing that they extend maceration times, but at
low temperatures in order to obtain better
polymerization of the tannins and more stable
color.
The aromatic profi le of Gaglioppo is inter-
esting, with high levels of benzenoids and nor-
isoprenoids; terpenes are low, but this is typical
of most neutral red grapes. Well-made wines
are rich in ethyl-hexanoate, ethyl-octanoate,
and
-damascenone, which explain the red-
fruit aromas and fl avors of the wine (Marchi
and Lanati 2008). Unfortunately, Gaglioppo's
combination of low anthocyanins, high acidity,
and rough tannins (though its tannins aren't
prevalent, neither are they particularly smooth)
is not endearing to modern consumers, and
this, coupled with what used to be very rustic
winemaking, pretty well sealed Cirò's fate (and
that of other Gaglioppo wines) in fi ne-wine cir-
cles. Fortunately, recent research and better
winemaking have brightened Gaglioppo's
outlook.
β
Which Wines to Choose and Why
Gaglioppo is confi ned mainly to Calabria and
reaches its potentially greatest heights in the
area around Cirò, on the Ionian coast, which
includes the towns of Cirò Marina, Crucoli, and
Melissa. However, it is an integral part of Cala-
brian DOC wines such as Bivongi, Donnici,
Lamezia, Pollino, and Savuto, among others. In
my experience, the wines of the last three are
best, especially Savuto, though Gaglioppo is
almost always blended with other varieties in
these wines. When Gaglioppo is blended with
one of the Magliocco s, the wines can be interest-
ing, while when Cabernet Sauvignon is used,
the wine becomes to my taste almost undrink-
able. Though I understand that a producer
might want to increase Gaglioppo wine's weak
color by adding Cabernet, the last thing Gagli-
oppo needs is more tannin. Think about it:
what sense does it make to join a high-acid, tan-
nic, and potentially herbal variety such as
Cabernet Sauvignon to Gaglioppo, which has
more or less the same characteristics?
The best examples of Cirò, or of any mono-
varietal Gaglioppo wine, exude aromas of
small red berries and citrus zest, with mineral
and delicate underbrush notes that are not
unlike a lighter, more saline Nebbiolo wine.
When poorly made however, it's astringent and
completely devoid of fruit, and then vies for the
title of Italy's worst grape variety. Severino
Garofano, one of Puglia's most famous wine-
makers and the man behind the rise of Negro
Amaro from workhorse grape to star material,
also consulted with many Calabrian wineries
wines to try: Caparra & Siciliani*** (Rosso
Classico, Superiore Riserva), Ceraudo*** (Dat-
tilo, Grayasusi), Librandi*** (Duca Sanfelice
Riserva), San Francesco*** (Ronco dei Quattro
Venti, Ronco dei Quattro Venti Rosato, an out-
standing wine), Vigna de Franco*** ('A Vita,
my favorite Cirò of all; the F36-p27 is also very
good), Ippolito** (Riserva Ripe del Falco),
Santa Venere**, and Vinicola Zito** (Classico
Riserva).
Gamba Rossa
where it's found: Piedmont. national reg-
istry code number: 403. color: red.
There are three main partridges in Europe
that people love to hunt: the chukar, which lives
high up on mountainous cliffs of Sicily; the
Barbary partridge, typical of North Africa and
Sardinia (called in fact “Sardinian partridge” in
Italy); and the red-legged partridge, common in
Spain and Mediterranean Europe, if for no
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