Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
(their Barbera is usually used in blends such as
Gutturnio).
A good, authentic barbera is distinguished
by numerous features: high acidity, intensely
purple hues (even when aged), a recognizable,
grapey aroma of red fruits, underbrush, and
delicate spices, plus a very dry fi nish (increased
by the high acidity). As this variety is very rich
in color and low in tannins, some producers
extend the maceration time to increase com-
plexity and depth of fl avor and oak it more or
less gently, though some oak-fetishists have
gone much too far, in my opinion. Barbera has
historically been made in a sparkling version
(referred to as
mossa
or
vivace
) that is ideal
with sandwiches, charcuterie, and any fatty
fare that appreciates the company of high
acidity.
Thanks to Italian immigrants and open-
minded producers of other nationalities, Bar-
bera wines are made all over the world in a
variety of styles. The best I've tried are those by
California's BellaGrace (their 2010 barbera won
top honors in the 2012 California State Fair
Commercial Wine Competition), Boeger (this
estate owns several Barbera vineyards planted
to different clones ideally matched to different
soils and microclimates; I especially like their
Vineyard Select bottling), Cooper Vineyards,
Macchia (big, high-alcohol wines; their Right-
eous and Infamous barbera is made with
grapes grown in Amador County vineyards,
while their Delicious barbera is made from
Lodi grapes), Renwood (another very rich,
Amarone-like wine I used to drink regularly
during my days in the United States), Sierra
Ridge Winery (at the foot of the Sierra foothills
at Sutter Creek), Yorba, and Jeff Rundquist—
but there are countless excellent examples to
choose from. VJB Vineyards and Cellars even
makes a Barbera Port. The fact that there is an
annual Barbera Festival in California's Amador
County, with as many as ninety different Bar-
bera wines poured, tells you just how popular
the grape and the wine have become in Califor-
nia. Not all these wines remind me of barbera
made in Italy (which is usually less soft and
more austere in its crisp fruit delivery), but they
are very well-made wines, exuberantly fruity
and delicious. Personally, I love to try them any
chance I get; in fact, of all the American wines
now being made with Italian native grapes, it is
the barberas that I enjoy the most.
In Australia, Barbera wines are made by
Brown Brothers, Chain of Ponds (called The
Stopover Barbera), Coriole, Gary Crittenden,
Dal Zotto, Robert Oatley Vineyards (their Mon-
trose Omaggio Barbera bottling is excellent and
benefi ts from some old vines; Barbera was
planted in the Montrose vineyard in 1972), and
Michelini. Apparently, there are good Barbera
wines made in Greece, Israel, and Uruguay,
none of which I've tasted yet. In South Africa,
Altydgedacht in Durbanville has been making
a monovarietal barbera since 1992 (but this
estate has always been a believer, planting Bar-
bera in the early 1900s; it also makes the Ralph
Parker bottling for Cape Wine Cellars); Fair-
view (from grapes planted in 2000 and 2001)
also reportedly makes a good barbera. I also
remember drinking a decent Brazilian example
once, the name of which I can't remember—
one glass too many, obviously.
wines to try:
For Piedmont, try
:
Braida***
(Barbera d'Asti Bricco dell'Uccellone, Bricco
della Bigotta, and Ai Suma; the La Monella is a
wonderful example of barbera vivace),
Dacapo*** (Nizza), Vietti*** (Luca Currado is
more famous for his Barolos, but the Barbera
d'Alba Scarrone and the Barbera Nizza La
Crena are the best wines he makes), Giacomo
Conterno*** (Cascina Francia and Ceretta,
both Barbera d'Alba), Marchesi Gresy*** (Bar-
bera d'Asti Monte Colombo), Iuli*** (Superi-
ore Barabba), Accornero** (Cima Riserva della
Casa Barbera del Monferrato), La Barbatella*.
For Lombardy, try: Riccardo Albani**, Castello
di Luzzano**, Bruno Verdi* (Campo del Mar-
rone), Gradizzolo* (Riserva Garò), Marchesi di
Montalto* (Bandera). For Emilia-Romagna, try:
La Stoppa**; La Berta* (Floresco), La Colom-
bina*, Poderi Morini* (Estroverso Frizzante),
Pandolfa*.
