Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
making the variety more available for future
plantings—and hopefully, more wines. Since
1990, two experimental vineyards were set up,
at Chianocco (in the Lower Susa valley) and at
Chiomonte (in the Upper Susa Valley). The
Chianocco vineyard was planted in 1993 with
thirty-three different presumed clones and bio-
types of Avanà, and their characteristics were
studied. Of these, two potentially higher-qual-
ity biotypes were selected (pre-clones 1 and 35)
and replanted in the Chiomonte vineyard in
2000; thus far, one offi cially certifi ed clone has
become available, CVT 1, which is apparently
less fertile, vigorous, and productive than oth-
ers. Wines made with it are more structured
and higher in alcohol.
Avanà has medium-sized, pyramidal-coni-
cal bunches and very large, round, dark berries;
the latter often show asynchronous ripening
and need plenty of sunlight. It's a fragile vari-
ety, prone to disease—it is very sensitive to per-
onospora, oidium, and grey rot—that does
poorly in windy conditions (the berries fall
easily to the ground) or environments of late-
season rains, both of which are rather typical of
its Piedmontese home. At least, it ripens rela-
tively early, usually in late September. It also
needs drought-resistant rootstocks. Avanà is
typical of the Valle di Susa (where it is the most
important local variety) and the Pinerolese,
cool, mountain territories to the west of Turin
in Piedmont, on the border with France. On
their next foray in this very beautiful neck of
the Italian woods, wine lovers passionate about
art might want to take in, besides the splendid
mountain panorama and a drink or two, the
well-kept Arch of Augustus (13-8 B . C . E .) in the
town of Susa. Though Barbera, Freisa, and
Bonarda are more famous, less well-known
natives like Avanà are actually quite abundant
in these parts, and I fi nd people are always
amazed at the many delightful wines made
with little-known cultivars such as Avanà.
but also much rarer examples of Italian ice wine.
Despite the country's wealth of mountainous,
snow-capped slopes, ice wine is neither tradi-
tional nor a specialty of Italy; for this reason
alone, little Avanà stands very tall indeed in the
panorama of native Italian cultivars. In Italy, ice
wine is labeled vino del ghiaccio and is most often
blended from frozen native grapes, roughly 60
percent Avanà, picked at -6°C or colder still.
The most traditional wine of the area is the
DOC Ramìe (named after the ramìe, or stacks
of branches once piled up when trees were cut
down to make room for vineyards), a blend of
roughly 30 percent Avanà and roughly 70 per-
cent other native local varieties, such as
Avarengo and Neretta Cuneese. The Avanà sup-
plies fragrance, the other two varieties provide
tannins and body. There are 100 percent Avanà
wines to be found in the area, as many local
producers—who often employ artisanal wine-
making techniques besides running bed-and-
breakfasts or similar activities to make ends
meet—produce small lots of bottles for their
clients, friends, and home consumption. They
go to the trouble because good avanà is very
enjoyable: almost garnet in color, with fresh
red-berry and fl oral aromas, and low in alcohol
(usually around 12 percent). Not surprisingly, it
is almost never aged in oak, and should be
drunk young. Avanà is also used to produce an
eau-de-vie called Eigovitto .
wines to try: Casa Ronsil* (the Ronsil family
has been linked to viticulture since 1342; after a
brief hiatus, they're back at winemaking with
Pierino Ronsil and his son-in-law Franck Thol-
let at the helm), Martina*, and Sibille*. Besides
dry wines, Casa Ronsil and La Clarea also make
good vino del ghiaccio. These are very charming
wines made in one of the most bucolic, charm-
ing areas of Italy, and the wines will add to
memories of halcyon vacation days.
Barbera
where it's found: Nearly everywhere in Italy.
national registry code number: 19. color:
red.
Which Wines to Choose and Why
Despite its sorry viticultural characteristics,
Avanà delivers not only interesting red wines,
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