Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Albarola, the former's leaves are more pentago-
nal and have clearer indentations and only
mildly downy undersides, while Albarola's are
hairier). In an interesting study comparing
monovarietal wines made with Albarola and
Bosco grown at different altitudes (240 and 430
meters above sea level) in the 2007 vintage,
results showed that wines grown at the lowest
altitude had higher contents of isoamyl acetate
(responsible for banana and exotic fruit aromas)
and 2-phenylethylacetate (fl oral sensations),
probably as a result of higher average tempera-
tures that allow for development of riper, tropi-
cal notes (Cravero, Bonello, Piano, Chiusano,
Borsa, Tsolakis, and Lale Demoz 2010). The low
pergola
(canopy) training system commonly
used in the Cinque Terre allows for greater pro-
tection from sunlight and heat, more even rip-
ening, and better wines. According to Pierluigi
Lugano, owner of the Bisson estate in Chiavari,
Liguria, Albarola wants fresh and well-exposed
sites; for such a thin-skinned variety, it has
good resistance to marine winds but is sensitive
to excessively humid conditions. It does best in
tarso,
very friable, dry, rocky, hillside soils typi-
cal of the Chiavari-Sestri Levante area (note that
tarso
should be distinguished from other local,
much harder soils such as
pietra dolce
and
colombina
). It's a very consistent producer, but
poorly resistant to fungi and oidium.
Albarola is Liguria's Missano area, where the
grape probably originated.
I think albarola is an underrated wine that
deserves to be better known. The grape is natu-
rally high in malic acid, and its wines exude
fresh citrus and delicate almondy aromas
and fl avors, with a clean, minty-saline edge.
Though not everybody appreciates its high
acidity, I do: it makes for an excellent food
wine, and given its dainty personality, produc-
ers mercifully do not oak it. When the vine is
overcropped, the wine is thin and tart. When
sipping a well-made Albarola wine, paying at
least a little attention to what you are drinking
will ensure that the wine's discreet but very
present charms won't be lost on you. In my
experience, wine made from the Kihlgren bio-
type is smoother and richer, with a more obvi-
ous tropical fruit presence. Keep in mind that
these wines have never shown any cellaring
potential, rather the reverse: drink them up
soon after the vintage.
wines to try:
Bisson*** (Bianchetta Gen-
ovese U Pastine Golfo del Tigullio), Pino
Gino*** (their Bianchetta Genovese Golfo del
Tigullio is mouth-puckeringly tart with lovely
hints of pear and melon), Santa Caterina***
(Bianco; this is the estate owned by Andrea
Kihlgren). Cantina Bregante* and Daniele
Parma* are also worth a look, as is AeP Teni-
menti, where Sara Arrigoni is making a very
good monovarietal albarola, among other wines.
Lunae Bosoni* makes a highly aromatic, fuller
version that is a little atypical and too glyceral for
me, but it's an impressive wine that has many
admirers. Cantine Segesta* (Sole della Costa)
makes a sweet wine from air-dried grapes, 80
percent Albarola and 20 percent Vermentino.
Bisson* (Acinirari) also makes a sweet, air-dried
Albarola and Vermentino blend.
Which Wines to Choose and Why
Grown in Liguria and Tuscany (as far down as
Massa Carrara and even Pisa), Albarola is also
found in the Cinque Terre, where it is used in
blends with Bosco and Vermentino to give not
only delicious, dry white wines, but also note-
worthy, if rare, sweet, air-dried ones. It's very
useful in blends, since it adds alcoholic strength
and body. The only 100 percent albarolas are
the DOC Golfo del Tigullio and Val Polcèvera
(and its subzone Coronata); there is a rare Golfo
del Tigullio DOC Passito (air-dried) sweet
wine. Albarola is also included in many better-
known Ligurian blends, including those of
Colli di Luni and Cinque Terre, and even in
Tuscany's Montescudaio. The one
grand cru
for
Aleatico
where it's found:
Tuscany, Lazio, Marche,
Puglia, Sicily, and Umbria.
national registry
code number:
9.
color:
red.
