Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
blind tastings by the superstars coming out of
the Vulture area in Basilicata. Basilicata (at
times called Lucania) is the country's smallest
region, tucked away between the heel (Puglia)
and toe (Calabria) of Italy's boot-shaped geogra-
phy. There is hardly a better habitat for the
Aglianico variety than the volcanic soils of the
Vulture (“almost too mineral,” insinuates Anto-
nio Mastroberardino, but then, he's from Cam-
pania, so you understand his position), the
extinct volcano that dominates northern Basili-
cata. The Vulture is so named because it's
shape is said to be reminiscent of that large
scavenger, but this likeness is undoubtedly
much easier to appreciate after having imbibed
very large amounts of the red wine in question.
Otherwise, I can't imagine anyone seeing any
resemblance to a vulture or any other bird, for
that matter. And I'm an animal lover. In theory,
these wines ought to be fairly different from
one another, given that they are made in
different
terroirs
and with biotypes specifi c
to each individual area; however, many produc-
ers have planted all three biotypes (a huge
shame, in my opinion) in their vineyards and
therefore nuances are lost in many modern
wines.
The sine qua non of all Aglianico wines is
an extremely high acidity (mainly due to high
natural concentrations of tartaric acid) that
makes the wine capable of aging magnifi cently,
as well as a wonderfully nuanced minerality.
This natural acidity is also responsible for the
wine's light-on-its-feet personality—despite its
being usually very full bodied and structured—
while the mineral, almost fl inty touch adds
further minerality, freshness, complexity, and
depth. The gracefulness and minerality of
Aglianico wines offer considerable refi nement
while eschewing gamey or leathery notes, a
combination that sets the Aglianico grape and
wine apart from all other central and southern
Italian red wine grapes, including Montepul-
ciano, Nero d'Avola, Primitivo, or Negro Amaro.
For this reason, it was a shame to see more and
more producers—especially in Taurasi, but this
was true of many wines from Basilicata as
well—in the early part of the twenty-fi rst cen-
tury attempting to join the arms race by mak-
ing always bigger, chocolaty-sweet, very ripe,
low pH, and overly alcoholic wines. Whether
this was out of a heartfelt conviction (mis-
guided, in my view) that such wines repre-
sented an improvement over past efforts, or the
secret hope of winning over less-than-expert
wine critics with soft, approachable wines, I
don't know. It doesn't matter really: mercifully,
producers have been scaling back, giving us
wine lovers the Aglianico wines we have always
known and loved. Last but not least, the astute
wine buyer will take note of the fact that
Aglianico's wines are grossly underpriced rela-
tive to their quality; except for a few examples,
most cost a good 30 percent less than Barolo,
Brunello, and the other great reds from around
the world.
Beyond Italy's borders, Aglianico wines of
note are being made in Australia, usually in a
more accessible, less acid and tannic style than
in Italy. Many are garnering critical acclaim
and awards: in the Australian Alternative Vari-
eties Wine Show 2010, Westend Estate of
Griffi th, in New South Wales, won a best red
wine trophy with a 2008 Aglianico. Australian
Aglianico producers of merit include Amadio,
Beach Road, Brown Brothers, Chalmers Mur-
ray, Di Lusso Estate, Karanto Vineyards, Perta-
ringa, and Westend Estate (in their Calabria
series of wines). Many are excellent wines: for
example, Chalmers bottled a 2005 that was big
and almost pruney, while their 2009 was
lighter and more refi ned. I fi nd the Aglianico
by Amadio, made from Barossa Valley grapes,
also noteworthy.
In California, Seghesio and Kenneth Volk
are producing Aglianico wines, but less well-
known and very interesting wines are being
made by Caparone in Paso Robles, Sutter Creek
Vineyard (the 2006 Domenico Aglianico was a
blend, while the 2007 was monovarietal), Villa
Creek (Luna Matta Vineyard; I tasted the 2008
bottling, a well-made wine), Jacuzzi Family
Vineyards, Ryme Wine Cellars (this estate is
devoted to many Italian cultivars and fi rst
