Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
I have tried countless times over the last fi f-
teen years to gain precise, consistent informa-
tion regarding this variety, but the goal has
been elusive to say the least. Even talking to
producers who were supposedly making an
Abrusco wine proved of limited use, though
Giandomenico Gigante of Tuscany's Fattoria La
Traiana estate has been a pleasant exception.
He believes that Abrusco is a distinct variety,
which he calls Abrusco del Valdarno (though
he prefers to write it as Val d'Arno, in honor of
the spelling in Cosimo Medici's time and of the
new DOC that now encompasses all of the
Valdarno di Sopra production zone). Further,
he says it is in no way related to Colorino del
Valdarno, which he also grows; he points out
that his estate has been visited numerous times
both by government inspectors and by research-
ers from the nearby Istituto Sperimentale di
Viticoltura di Arezzo, and nobody has ever
found Colorino del Valdarno and Abrusco del
Valdarno to be the same variety. He also
remembers that the old-timers working in the
vineyards when he was a child called this vari-
ety Raverusto or even Colore, but never Color-
ino, and always distinguished it from the Color-
ino del Valdarno that also grew there. At the Tre
Stelle estate near San Gimignano, Donatella
and Antonella Rubicini (who are, along with
their mother Maria, the three stars the estate's
name refers to: the label depicts the profi les of
three women and stars) own twenty vines of
Abrusco interplanted with other varieties, and
they too feel the grapevine is different from any
other they know (their plantings were origi-
nally identifi ed by Giancarlo Scalabrelli, one of
Italy's most famous academic viticulture
experts and professor at the University of Pisa).
In conclusion, according to our current
knowledge, Abrusco is characterized by
medium-small, pyramidal, winged bunches
(much smaller than Abrostine's) with medium-
small, blue-black, thick-skinned berries. It's
both vigorous and very resistant to disease.
Most important, for it speaks of Abrusco's
winemaking potential, the variety has, like
Colorino del Valdarno and all the best wine
grapes, a colorless pulp. Matters such as the
most suitable rootstocks, pruning techniques,
training systems, and soils for Abrusco are still
a matter of conjecture. There are apparently
less than ten hectares planted in all of Italy.
Which Wines to Choose and Why
Abrusco grows mainly around Florence and
Pisa, and no DOC wine exists. It is used prima-
rily as a blending variety (in IGT wines such as
Alta Valle del Greve, Val di Magra, or Costa
Toscana) though there are a few pure IGT ver-
sions of note. Abrusco's well-pigmented skins
result in wines of deep color, though aromas
and fl avors are somewhat more limited in their
complexity and range. According to Gigante,
Abrusco wines are even more deeply colored
and more tannic than those of Colorino del
Valdarno, and he fi nds the tannins slightly
more rough and bitter. Abrusco wines also have
lower alcohol levels and higher acidities than
those made with Colorino del Valdarno.
Based on my tastings over the years of what
I was told (sigh . . . ) were monovarietal Abrusco
wines, delicate notes of spicy red and chewy
tannins seem the norm with Abrusco, as well
as limited potential for aging and limited depth.
Gigante agrees that red-fruit aromas and fl a-
vors (red currant, dark red cherry, and straw-
berry) are the norm. Gigante does not believe
Abrusco makes a good monovarietal wine (too
astringent, too hard tasting), but likes it as a
blending agent, because it adds color and struc-
ture without altering the wine's basic aroma
and fl avor profi le, provided that not more than
5-6 percent of Abrusco is added. Clearly, the
Rubicini sisters have a different view, as they
have been making a 100 percent Abrusco wine
(called Agino) for the past decade, dedicating it
to the memories of their father and of Luigi
(“Gino”) Veronelli, Italy's most famous and
fi rst professional wine writer.
wines to try:
The only reportedly 100 percent
Abrusco wine worth reporting is by Le Tre
Stelle** (Agino), made near San Gimignano.
The wine is dedicated to Italy's greatest wine
