Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
in the countrysides of Solarussa and near
Escalaplano, have different SSR profi les.
In any case, Vernaccia di Oristano is a beau-
tiful grape, and quite recognizable because of
its very round leaf. It also has medium-small,
conical bunches, usually winged and compact
(these clearly differentiate it from Vernaccia di
San Gimignano, which has large, pyramidal
bunches). The berry is small and round, with
thin, yellow-gold skin
.
The harvest usually
occurs at the beginning of October. It is very
sensitive to late spring frosts and to both oid-
ium and peronospora. There are three offi cially
recognized clones (CAPVS 1, CAVPS 2, and
CAPVS 3). These three clones are fairly similar
in their morphology, viticultural behavior, and
the wines made from them; perhaps CAPVS 1
produces wines that are a bit more graceful
than the others.
Nieddu's interesting and very informative
2007 study tells us that only 9 percent of Sar-
dinia's Vernaccia di Oristano vineyards are
larger than fi ve hectares, with 48 percent less
than one hectare (Nieddu, Nieddu, Cocco, Erre,
and Chessa 2007). Also, the majority of these
vineyards are quite old: only 6 percent have
been planted within the last six years, while 28
percent are between thirty and fi fty years old
and 28 percent are over fi fty years old. This sort
of information is invaluable: on the one hand, it
tells us that wines made with Vernaccia di Oris-
tano are made mainly with old vines, which
gives the wine lover hope they will be complex
and deep. On the other, it also means that not
much Vernaccia di Oristano is being planted of
late, a sure sign the wine is falling out of favor
with the masses. In fact, while most Vernaccia
di Oristano is planted in the lower valley of the
Tirso River, there isn't that much Vernaccia di
Oristano planted around Oristano itself; most
plantings are located close to the nearby towns
of Riola Sardo, Cabras, and San Vero Milis.
While there used to be close to 1,500 hectares
planted to this variety in the 1970s, as of 2010
there were only 435 hectares (a further decrease
from the 582 hectares recorded in 2000)
planted to Vernaccia di Oristano in Sardinia.
The area near Sinis is particularly noteworthy,
since many old vines still exist there, planted in
highly sandy soils. Actually, the variety has
always been cultivated in two different soils:
the
gregori,
which are higher, drier, very low in
limestone content, and not very fertile, and the
bennaxi,
which are fertile soils of alluvial
nature, rich in loamy clay, and located at lower
altitudes (they were once marshes). These two
are believed to give the best wines; there is also
a third soil type in which Vernaccia di Oristano
is grown (for example, near San Vero Milis,
Riolo, and Zeddiani), reddish-brown in color,
containing more limestone and iron.
Which Wines to Choose and Why
DOC wines are Vernaccia di Oristano, which
can also be made in a fortifi ed style (DOC Ver-
naccia di Oristano Liquoroso) that may be
either dry
(secco)
or sweet
(dolce).
All have
minimum ageing requirements;
superiore
means the wine has more alcohol. This wine is
traditionally aged in chestnut or oak barrels in
a
solera
system (an aging system that consists
in progressively topping up barrels fi lled with
older wine—a part of which is removed for bot-
tling—with slightly younger wine; the same
process is used in the making of fi ne Sherry).
Therefore, most vernacccia di Oristanos are
blends of wines of different age, made in a
slightly oxidized style reminiscent (after
roughly two years) of a Fino or Amontillado
Sherry. The best vernaccia di Oristanos are not
fortifi ed. Due to the specifi c microclimate and
the specifi c local yeast population, a thin coat-
ing of powdery white
fl o r
develops on the wine's
surface—usually, roughly 20 percent of the
barrels are left open to air, for up to ten years,
allowing for a slow, controlled oxidation and the
development of
fl o r .
The
fl o r
doesn't always
develop in all wines, and those without it are
simple, herbal-lemony whites meant for early
drinking. A good vernaccia di Oristano can be
a thing of beauty, exuding aromas and fl avors
of dried apricots, hazelnut, almond paste,
orange rind, fresh aromatic herbs, white choco-
late, and faded fl owers. Though vernaccia di
