Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
likely Malvasia Nera di Brindisi
:
Castello di
Ama's Chianti Classico Vigna Bellavista, Cas-
tellare's I Sodi di San Niccolò, and Capannelle's
Solare. However only those wines in which
Malvasia di Brindisi plays a part will exude the
delicately aromatic touch typical of the variety,
which Malvasia Nera di Lecce does not supply.
It's also an excellent table grape.
available clones of Malvasia Nera di Lecce:
M-N-6, U.S.FI-PI.3Np, U.S.FI-PI.4Np, U.S.FI-
PI.1, and U.S.FI-PI.7). Interestingly, and in
keeping with the notion that these two are sepa-
rate varieties, these clones are different from
the offi cial clones of Malvasia Nera di Lecce.
In Puglia Malvasia Nera di Lecce is almost
always blended with Negro Amaro, and there
do not appear to be pure examples of it pro-
duced. At least, I have not yet met any producer
who tells me his monovarietal Malvasia Nera
wine is made wholly with Malvasia Nera di
Lecce (because it's generally viewed as the
lower quality variety of the two). It is part of the
blend in DOC wines such as Squinzano, Alezio,
Copertino, Leverano, and Salice Salentino.
wines to try:
To the best of my knowledge,
and based on what the producers have told me,
the following wines are made with Malvasia
Nera di Brindisi, wholly or for the largest part.
In Puglia, try
:
Duca Carlo Guarini** (Malia),
Botrugno** (Nashi, a
novello-
or
nouveau
-style
wine, and Botrus, a very interesting lightly
sweet wine made from 50 percent late-har-
vested grapes), and Barsento* (Magilda, an
excellent
rosato
). In Umbria, try I Girasoli di
Sant'Andrea/Carlo Massimiliano Gritti**.
wines to try:
To the best of my knowledge,
there are no 100 percent Malvasia Nera di Lecce
wines made in Italy.
Malvasia Nera di Lecce
where it's found:
Puglia.
national registry
code number:
141.
color:
red.
For more on the confusion surrounding this
variety's relationship with Malvasia Nera di
Brindisi, see the introduction to the dark-ber-
ried
Malvasia
varieties and the Malvasia Nera di
Brindisi entry. Malvasia Nera di Lecce is grown
in Puglia and does not appear to be found in
other regions of Italy save for Tuscany, where
the grape so called is most likely Tempranillo.
Whether
all
Malvasia di Lecce is in fact Tempra-
nillo is unclear. It should be noted that some
Malvasia Nera di Lecce accessions from south-
ern Italy have also been found to be Tempra-
nillo; whether these originally grew there or
were propagated from Tuscan Tempranillo
vines mistakenly thought to be Malvasia Nera
di Lecce remains unclear.
The variety, which ripens much later in the
year than Malvasia Nera di Brindisi (usually in
the latter part of September and fi rst ten days of
October), is also characterized by much larger
bunches than those of the Brindisi variety, but
clearly the phenotype depends to an extent on
the clone or biotype examined (there are fi ve
Malvasia Nera Lunga
where it's found:
Piedmont.
national reg-
istry code number:
363.
color:
red.
Also called Moscatella (a name more com-
monly used for the white-berried Malvasia
Moscata) in the province of Alessandria and
even Moscato Nero in the area between Asti
and Turin, both of these are erroneous aliases.
Malvasia Nera Lunga is an aromatic variety
with a much greater ampelographic resem-
blance to Moscato di Scanzo than the other two
red Piedmontese
Malvasia
s have. It is clearly
recognizable by its very long and medium-large
bunch with one or two wings and medium-
round berries. It is less vigorous than Malvasia
di Schierano but a much more regular and gen-
erous yielding variety. Even better for farmers
who make their living by tilling the land in
Piedmont, a region known for its cool, rainy,
and capricious fall weather, Malvasia Nera
Lunga ripens at least a full two weeks before
Malvasia di Schierano. No offi cial clones are
available as yet. Nowadays, Malvasia Nera
Lunga is usually found in vineyards mixed in
with Malvasia di Schierano in the townships of
