VISA REGIMES AND REGULATORY DOCUMENTS AS AN OBSTACLE FOR TOURISM DEVELOPMENT IN CENTRAL ASIA - Tourism in Central Asia: Cultural Potential and Challenges - page 254

In addition to a number of problems with documentation, tourists may
also encounter problems in crossing the border itself. In the past, this has
been one of the chief trials associated with traveling in Central Asia. In
some extreme cases, it was even possible to cross the border illegally,
without a visa, on the strength of a bribe. 24
The low pay of officials at border stations, bureaucratic chaos and in-
adequate enforcement of mutually contradictory regulations has led to the
authorities demanding bribes from tourists. The greatest degree of pro-
tection was afforded tourists coming from outside the CIS countries, for
whom documentation was normally in order (or seemingly so). Tourists
from the CIS countries, however, were often seen as “ours” and lacked the
protection of Western consulates and possible diplomatic notes.
Airport border crossings, the usual gateway into Central Asia, are ordi-
narily problem-free. Nonstandard procedures on the part of border guards
ordinarily equate to bribes being demanded from tourists. The most fre-
quent location at which this takes place is customs control and is connect-
ed to customs declarations. The custom declaration, which is available in
a number of locations only in local languages and Russian, may be a great
aggravation for tourists who are not fluent in either language. And a po-
tential source of misunderstanding occurs during the customs procedure. 25
Normally, however, a bribe will be requested during discussions with the
customs official, particularly at smaller border crossings or places where
corruption is an everyday part of life. 26 In spite of great progress in admin-
istering border crossings, the situation has changed only very slowly.
Chaotic organization at border crossings often acts as a stimulus for
corruption. At one of the largest border crossings between Russia and
Kazakhstan, at Petropavlovsk, it is first necessary to run to the train station
for a migration card for entry to Kazakhstan. Only after having done so
can one address the border guards. Because of the frequent border cross-
ings, which take place at night, a number of people are unable to arrange
24 In 2000, my colleagues got into Turkmenistan in a cargo train from Uzbekistan and back for a few
dollars.
25 The customs declaration also does not allow for money to be taken from an automatic teller, a prob-
lem chiefly with Uzbeck customs agents.
26 In spite of the fact that the extent of corruption cannot be quantified, Zhibek Zholy remains one of
the most problematic border crossings. Being located between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan close to
Tashkent, it also has the most traffic. Tourists may encounter efforts to find an excuse for asking for a
bribe on both the Kazakh and Uzbek sides.