Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Lennon Wall (Lennonova Zeď)
While Lenin's ideas hung like a water-soaked trench coat upon the
Czech people, rock singer John Lennon's ideas gave many locals
hope and a vision. When Lennon
was killed in 1980, a large wall
was spontaneously covered with
memorial graffiti. Night after
night, the police would paint over
the “All You Need Is Love” and
“Imagine” graffiti. And day after
day, it would reappear. Until inde-
pendence came in 1989, travelers,
freedom-lovers, and local hippies
gathered here. Silly as it might seem, this wall is remembered as a
place that gave hope to locals craving freedom. Even today, while
the tension and danger associated with this wall is gone, people
come here to imagine. “John žije” is Czech for “John lives.” In the
left-hand corner of the wall, a small gate leads to a quiet courtyard
with a recommended outdoor café dedicated to John and George.
• From here, you can continue up to the Little Quarter Square.
On or near Little Quarter Square
The focal point of this neighborhood, the Little Quarter Square
(Malostranské Náměstí) is dominated by the huge Church of St.
Nicholas. Note that there's a handy Via Musica ticket office across
from the church.
Church of St. Nicholas (Kostel Sv. Mikuláše) —When the
Jesuits came to Prague, they found the perfect piece of real estate
for their church and its associated school—right on Little Quarter
Square. The church (built 1703-1760) is the best example of High
Baroque in town. It's giddy with curves and illusions. The altar fea-
tures a lavish gold-plated Nicholas, flanked by the two top Jesuits:
the founder, St. Ignatius Loyola, and his missionary follower, St.
Francis Xavier. Climb up the gallery through the staircase in the
left transept for a close-up look at a collection of large canvases and
illusionary frescoes by Karel Škréta, the greatest Czech Baroque
painter. Notice that at first glance, the canvases are utterly dark.
But as sunbeams shine through the window, various parts of the
painting brighten up. Like a looking-glass, the image reflects the
light, creating a play of light and darkness. This painting technique
reflects a central Baroque belief: The world is full of darkness, and
the only hope that makes it come alive comes from God. The church
walls seem to nearly fuse with the sky, suggesting that happen-
ings on earth are closely connected to heaven. Find St. Nick with
his bishop's miter in the center of the ceiling, on his way to heaven
(60 Kč, church open daily 9:00-17:00, opens at 8:30 for prayer).
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