Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
aries, this critic of the power of the Church was a proponent of
social equality; for the nationalists, this Czech preacher was the
defender of the language; and for the communists, Hus was the
first ideologue to preach the gospel of socialism.
Today's chapel is a 1950s reconstruction of the original. Try
the unbelievably bad acoustics inside—they demonstrate the sloppy
work sponsored by the communists (tiny upstairs exhibit and big
chapel with English-info sheets available; entry-40 Kč; April-Oct
daily 10:00-18:30; Nov-March Tue-Sun 10:00-17:30, closed Mon
and during frequent university functions; Betlémské Náměstí, tel.
224-248-595).
The Klub Architektů restaurant, across from the entry, has a
cave-like atmosphere inside, straw-chair seating outside, and good
food both in and out (see page 132).
The tiny
Family Museum of Postcards
is around the corner
on Liliová street, which connects Bethlehem Square with Karlova.
After learning how the Austrian Empire invented the postcard,
you can buy your own early-20th-century specimen (entry-40 Kč,
Tue-Sun 11:00-19:00, closed Mon, tel. 222-222-519).
From Old Town Square to Charles Bridge
Karlova Street
—Karlova street winds through medieval Prague
from the Old Town Square to the Charles Bridge (it zigzags...just
follow the crowds). This is a commercial gauntlet, and it's here that
the touristy feeding frenzy of Prague is most ugly. Street signs keep
you on track, and
Karlův most
signs point to the bridge. Obviously,
you'll find few good values on this drag. Two favorite places provid-
ing a quick break from the crowds are just a few steps off Karlova
on Husova street:
Cream and Dream Ice Cream
(Husova 12) and
U Zlatého Tygra,
a colorful pub that serves great, cheap beer in a
classic and untouristy setting (Husova 17; see page 129).
s
Klementinum
—he Czech Republic's massive National Library
borders touristy Karlova street. The contrast could not be starker:
Step out of the most souvenir-packed stretch of Eastern Europe,
and enter into the meditative silence of Eastern Europe's biggest
library. The Klementinum was built to house a college in the 1600s
by the Jesuits, who had been invited to Prague by the Catholic
Habsburgs to offset the influence of the predominantly Protestant
Charles University nearby. The building was transformed into a
library in the early 1700s, when the Jesuits took firm control of the
university. Their books, together with the collections of several
noble families (written in all possible languages...except Czech),
form the nucleus of the National and University Library, which
is now six million volumes strong. (Note that the Klementinum's
Chapel of Mirrors is a popular venue for evening concerts.)
Library Tour and Tower Climb:
W h i le much of t he
