Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Czech Puppets
The first puppets were born on the Indian subcontinent, and
soon found their way to Europe and Southeast Asia. Czechs
have treasured the art of puppets for centuries; at times of
heavy German influence in the 18th century, traveling troupes
of puppeteers kept the Czech language and humor alive in
the countryside. While the language of “legitimate theater”
had to be German, Czech was tolerated if it came out of a
puppet's mouth.
Until recently, most grandfathers felt obliged to bequeath
to their grandsons an assembly of their own linden-wood
carved designs. The power of puppets peaked between 1938
and 1989, when the Czechs were ruled by a series of puppet
governments. Today, Špejbl and Hurvínek, who have their
own permanent stage in Prague, are the greatest Czechs for
kids from Japan to Patagonia. Filmmaker Jan Švankmajer (see
page 278) is turning wooden characters into Oscar-winning
film stars.
Most marionettes sold in the tourist shops in Prague and
Český Krumlov are meant as souvenirs. It takes a rare artist
to turn pieces of wood into nimble puppets, and prices for
these can reach into the thousands of dollars. But given that
puppets have a glorious past and vibrant present in the Czech
Republic, even a simple jester, witch, or Pinocchio can make a
thoughtful memento of your Czech adventure.
three major crystal retailers (generally open daily 10:00-20:00):
Moser, Rott Crystal, and Crystalex (which claims to have “factory-
direct” prices, at #6 on the square).
Czech Garnets:
This extraordinary stone of fiery red color,
with unique refractive—some claim even curative—properties, is
found only in Bohemia. The characteristic design of garnet jewelry,
with the jewels overwhelming the metal setting, became popular
in the 1890s and remains so today. Although garnet jewelry is sold
in most crystal shops, the
Turnov Granát Co-op
has the larg-
est selection (with shops at Dlouhá 30 and Panská 1, www.granat
.eu). It oversees its own mining and represents over 300 traditional
goldsmiths and jewelers. If you buy garnet jewelry, make sure to
ask your vendor for a certificate of authenticity—many shops sell
glass imitations.
Bookstores
Anagram Bookshop,
in the Ungelt courtyard behind the Týn
Church, professes that of all the ways of acquiring books, writing
them yourself is the most praiseworthy. While you won't be asked
to leave a bit of yourself here, you will find books in English on
