Eating - Prague and the Czech Republic - page 138

Malý Buddha (Little Buddha) serves delightful food—
especially vegetarian—and takes its theme seriously. You'll step
into a mellow, low-lit escape of bamboo and peace to be served by
people with perfect complexions and almost no pulse (Tue-Sun
13:00-22:30, closed Mon, non-smoking, between the castle and
Strahov Monastery at Úvoz 46, tel. [phone]).
Espresso Kajetánka, just off Castle Square, has magnificent
city views. It's a good-if-overpriced place for a drink or snack as
you start or end your castle visit (daily 10:00-20:00, Ke Hradu, tel.
257-533-735).
Na Baště, more convenient but not as scenic, is in a garden
through the gate to the left of the main castle entry. The outdoor
seating, among Jože Plečnik's ramparts and obelisks, is the castle
at its most peaceful (Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00,
tel. [phone]).
Dining with Style
In Prague, a fancy candlelit dinner with fine wines and
connoisseur-approved dishes costs more than most locals can
afford—but it's still a bargain in comparison to similar restaurants
in Paris or Dallas. I list only two such splurges: one aristocratic,
Old World, and under the castle; one more modern, untouristy,
and near the Old Town Square.
Restaurace David, with two little 18th-century rooms hiding
on a small cobblestone street opposite the American Embassy in
the Little Quarter, is my choice for a romantic splurge. The exqui-
site cuisine, a modern incarnation of traditional Czech dishes with
French and European influences, ranges from game to roasted duck
and liver. Your meal comes with the gourmet quotient of knives
and fancy glasses, and graceful waiters serve you like an aristo-
crat—appropriate, considering the neighborhood. Reservations are
recommended (most meals 600-1,000 Kč, open daily, Tržiště 21,
see “Little Quarter” map on page 120, tel. [phone]).
Restaurant Červená Tabulka (Red Chalkboard) is in a low,
nondescript townhouse in a quiet neighborhood outside of the
tourist circus. Sit in the dressy candlelit interior or on the quiet
and breezy cobbled courtyard. Either way, there's not a dumpling
in sight. The menu features modern international dishes with a
focus on fish (fine 300-Kč plates and gourmet presentation). The
wines are excellent and a great value (daily 11:30-23:00, Lodecká
4, tel. [phone]). To get to the restaurant from the Municipal
House, cross Náměstí Republiky and turn right onto Truhlářská;
it's 200 yards down the street on the corner of quiet Petrské
Náměstí Square (see “New Town” map on page 122).