Eating - Prague and the Czech Republic - page 137

Restaurace Rybářský Klub, on Kampa Island overlooking
the river, is run by the Society of Czech Fishermen and serves one
of the widest and tastiest selections of freshwater fish in Prague,
at reasonable prices. Dine on fish-cream soup, pike, trout, carp, or
catfish under the imaginative artwork of Little Quarter painter Mr.
Kuba. On warm evenings, late May through October, the Society
fills its dock with tables—my choice for the best riverside dining
in town (three-course meal for around 400 Kč, riverside menu
not as extensive as indoor restaurant menu, daily 12:00-23:00,
U Sovových Mlýnů 1, tel. [phone]).
In the Castle Quarter
To locate the following restaurants, see the map on page 98.
Klášterní Pivovar (Monastery Brewery), founded by an abbot
in 1628 and reopened in 2004, has two large rooms, a pleasant
courtyard, and typically unpleasant staff. This is the place to taste
rare unpasteurized yeast beer, brewed on the premises. The wooden
decor and circa-1900 newspaper clippings (including Habsburg
Emperor Franz Josef 's “Proclamation to My Nations,” announcing
the beginning of the First World War) evoke the era when Vienna
was Europe's artistic capital, Prague was building its faux Eiffel
Tower, and life moved much slower than today. To accompany
the beer, try the beer-flavored cheese served on toasted black-yeast
bread (daily 10:00-22:00, Strahovské Nádvoří 301, tel. 233-353-
155). It's directly across from the entrance to the Strahov Library
(not to be confused with the enormous, group-oriented Klášterní
Restaurace next door, to the right).
Restaurace Nad Úvozem is hidden in the middle of a staircase
that connects Loretánská and Úvoz streets. This secret spot, which
boasts super views of Prague, offers decent food for surprisingly low
prices, given its location. Try the roast beef in plum sauce (170 Kč).
The service is slower when the restaurant is full, as the kitchen has
limited space (daily 12:00-21:00; as you go down Loretánská watch
for pans, scoops, and spoons hanging on chains on your right at
#15; tel. [phone]). To discourage pub-goers from mingling with
diners, the beer here is terribly overpriced (69 Kč).
Hostinec u Černého Vola (By the Black Ox) is a smoky,
dingy old-time pub—its survival in the midst of all the castle
splendor and tourism is a marvel. It feels like a kegger on the
banks of the river Styx, with classic bartenders serving up Kozel
beer (traditional “goat” brand with excellent darks) and beer-
friendly light meals. The pub is located on Loretánská (no sign
outside, sniff for cigarette smoke and look for the only house on
the block without an arcade, daily 10:00-22:00, English menu on
request, tel. [phone]).