Eating - Prague and the Czech Republic - page 131

benches here (daily 15:00-23:00, often jam-packed, just south of
Karlova at Husova 17, tel. [phone]).
Hospoda u Nováka, behind the National Theatre (i.e., not
so central), is emphatically Czech, with few tourists. It takes good
care of its regulars (you'll see the old monthly beer tabs in a rack
just inside the door). Nostalgic communist-era signs are every-
where. During that time, pubs like this were close-knit communi-
ties where regulars escaped from the depression of daily life. Today,
the U Nováka is a bright and smoky hangout where you can still
happily curse whatever regime you happen to live under. While
the English menu lists the well-executed Czech classics, it doesn't
list the cheap daily specials (daily 10:00-23:00, V Jirchářích 2, see
“New Town” map on page 122, tel. [phone]).
Restaurace u Betlémské Kaple, behind Bethlehem Chapel, is
not “ye olde” Czech. It has light wooden decor, cheap lunch deals,
and fish specialties that attract natives and visitors in search of a
good Czech bite for Czech prices (daily 11:00-23:00, Betlémské
Náměstí 2, tel. [phone]).
Česká Kuchyně (Czech Kitchen) is a blue-collar cafeteria
serving steamy old Czech cuisine to a local clientele. It's fast, prac-
tical, cheap, and traditional as can be. There's no English inside,
so—if you want apple charlotte, but not tripe soup—be sure to
review the small English menu in the window outside before
entering. Note the numbers of your preferred dishes, because they
correspond to the Czech menu that you'll see inside. Pick up your
tally sheet as you enter, grab a tray, point liberally to whatever
you'd like, and keep the paper to pay as you exit. It's extremely
cheap...unless you lose your paper (daily 9:00-20:00, very central,
across from Havelská Market at Havelská 23, tel. [phone]).
Restaurace Mlejnice (The Mill) is a fun little pub strewn
with farm implements and happy eaters, located just out of the
tourist crush two blocks from the Old Town Square. They serve
hardy traditional and modern Czech plates for 150-180 Kč.
Reservations are smart in the evening (daily 11:00-24:00, between
Melantrichova and Železná at Kožná 14, tel. [phone]).
Hip Restaurants
Country Life Vegetarian Restaurant is a bright, easy, non-
smoking cafeteria with a well-displayed buffet of salads and hot
veggie dishes. It's midway between the Old Town Square and the
bottom of Wenceslas Square. They're serious about their vegetari-
anism, serving only plant-based, unprocessed, and unrefined food.
Its dining area is quiet and elegantly woody for a cafeteria, with
three tables and wicker chairs outside in the courtyard (Sun-Thu
9:00-20:30, Fri 9:00-17:00, closed Sat, through courtyard at
Melantrichova 15/Michalská 18, tel. [phone]).