Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
neighborhood (see “Prague's Four Towns,” page 40). The most
options—and highest prices—are in the Old Town. If you want
a memorable splurge, see “Dining with Style” on page 138. For
a light meal, consider one of Prague's many cafés (see “Cafés” on
page 134). Many of the places listed here are handy for an efficient
lunch, but may not offer fine evening dining. Others make less
sense for lunch, but are great for a slow, drawn-out dinner. Read
the descriptions to judge which is which.
Fun, Touristy Neighborhoods: Several areas are pretty and
well-situated for sightseeing, but lined only with touristy restau-
rants. While these places are not necessarily bad values, I've listed
only a few of your many options—just survey the scene in these
spots and choose whatever looks best. Kampa Square, just off the
Charles Bridge, feels like a small-town square. Havelská Market
is surrounded by colorful little eateries, any of which give a fine
perch for viewing the market scene while you munch. The mas-
sive Old Town Square is the place to nurse a drink or enjoy a meal
while watching the tide of people, both tourists and locals, sweep
back and forth. There's often some event on this main square, and
its many restaurants provide tasty and relaxing vantage points.
Dining with a View: For great views, consider these options:
Restaurant u Prince Terrace (rooftop dining above a fancy
hotel, completely touristy but awesome views, recommended and
described on page 134); the Bellavista Restaurant at Strahov
Monastery; Petřínské Terasy and Nebozízek next to the funicu-
lar stop halfway up Petřín Hill; and the many overpriced but
elegant places serving scenic meals along the riverbanks. For the
best cheap riverside dinner, have a picnic on a paddleboat (see page
50). There's nothing like drifting down the middle of the Vltava
River as the sun sets, while munching on a picnic meal and sipping
a beer with your favorite travel partner.
In or near the Old Town
Characteristically Czech Places
With the inevitable closing of cheap student pubs (replaced by
shops and hotels that make more money), it's getting difficult to
find a truly Czech pub in the historic city center. Most Czechs
no longer go to “traditional” eateries, preferring the cosmopolitan
taste of the world to the mundane taste of sauerkraut. As a result,
ancient institutions with “authentic” Czech ambience have become
touristy—but they're still great fun, a good value, and respected
by Czechs. Expect wonderfully rustic spaces, smoke, surly service,
and reasonably good, inexpensive food. Understand every line on
your bill.
Plzeňská Restaurace u Dvou Koček (By the Two Cats) is a
typical Czech pub with cheap, no-nonsense, hearty Czech food
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