Environmental Engineering Reference
In-Depth Information
2
u ¼ @
u
@
t ¼ @
F
H
2
cosh k
½
ð
z þ d
Þ
2
_
t ¼ v
sin k x v t
ð
Þ
@
x
@
sinh k d
ð
Þ
w ¼ @
w
@
t ¼ @
2
F
ð
x
;
z
;
t
Þ
H
2
sinh k
½
ð
z þ d
Þ
2
_
t ¼v
cos k x v t
ð
Þ
@
z
@
sinh k d
ð
Þ
The pressure field in the Airy wave is obtained from the linearised Bernoulli equation for
unsteady flows:
p þ r @F
@
p ¼ p p 0 ¼r g z r @F
@
t þ r g z ¼ p 0
! D
t
Accordingly, the difference between this and atmospheric pressure (p 0 ) consists of a
hydrostatic ( r g z) and a hydrodynamic (unsteady) component:
p inst ¼r @F
@
t
Substituting the equation for the velocity potential in this relationship gives us
p inst ¼r @F
ð
;
;
Þ
cosh k
½
ð
z þ d
Þ
x
z
t
H
2
¼ r g
cos k x v t
ð
Þ
@
t
cosh k d
ð
Þ
Easy to recognise here is the fact that the dynamic pressure is proportional to the wave
profile and subsides with the depth ordinate (z
<
0):
cosh k
½
ð
z þ d
Þ
p inst ¼ r g z
ðÞ
x
;
cosh k d
ð
Þ
When designing marine structures it is often important to consider the processes involved
with the superposition of a current (e.g. tidal or river current) and a primary wave. This
results in a change to the wavelength and the wave height. Some important physical
relationships can be derived from the simplest case of a situation in deep water.
Let U C be the flow velocity (U C >
0 in the direction of wave propagation) and index 0
indicate the undisturbed waves. Using a fixed system of coordinates, the condition that
the frequency remains constant upon superposition then gives us the following for the
change in wavelength from
l 0 to
l
:
2
l
l 0 ¼
k 0
k ¼
ð
1 þ x
Þ
4
where
r
1 þ 4
U C
c 0
g T
2 p
x ¼
and
c 0 ¼
We obtain
r
g l
2 p
2
ð
1 þ x
Þ
c ¼ T ¼
1 þ x
2
2
v
¼ g k 0 ¼ g k
and
¼ c 0
4
for the modified dispersion equation and the phase velocity.
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