Environmental Engineering Reference
In-Depth Information
2
u
¼
@
u
@
t
¼
@
F
H
2
cosh k
½
ð
z
þ
d
Þ
2
_
t
¼ v
sin k
x
v
t
ð
Þ
@
x
@
sinh k
d
ð
Þ
w ¼
@
w
@
t
¼
@
2
F
ð
x
;
z
;
t
Þ
H
2
sinh k
½
ð
z þ d
Þ
2
_
t
¼v
cos k x v t
ð
Þ
@
z
@
sinh k d
ð
Þ
The pressure field in the Airy wave is obtained from the linearised Bernoulli equation for
unsteady flows:
p
þ r
@F
@
p
¼
p
p
0
¼r
g
z
r
@F
@
t
þ r
g
z
¼
p
0
! D
t
Accordingly, the difference between this and atmospheric pressure (p
0
) consists of a
hydrostatic (
r
g
z) and a hydrodynamic (unsteady) component:
p
inst
¼r
@F
@
t
Substituting the equation for the velocity potential in this relationship gives us
p
inst
¼r
@F
ð
;
;
Þ
cosh k
½
ð
z
þ
d
Þ
x
z
t
H
2
¼ r
g
cos k
x
v
t
ð
Þ
@
t
cosh k
d
ð
Þ
Easy to recognise here is the fact that the dynamic pressure is proportional to the wave
profile and subsides with the depth ordinate (z
<
0):
cosh k
½
ð
z
þ
d
Þ
p
inst
¼ r
g
z
ðÞ
x
;
cosh k
d
ð
Þ
When designing marine structures it is often important to consider the processes involved
with the superposition of a current (e.g. tidal or river current) and a primary wave. This
results in a change to the wavelength and the wave height. Some important physical
relationships can be derived from the simplest case of a situation in deep water.
Let U
C
be the flow velocity (U
C
>
0 in the direction of wave propagation) and index 0
indicate the undisturbed waves. Using a fixed system of coordinates, the condition that
the frequency remains constant upon superposition then gives us the following for the
change in wavelength from
l
0
to
l
:
2
l
l
0
¼
k
0
k
¼
ð
1
þ x
Þ
4
where
r
1
þ
4
U
C
c
0
g
T
2
p
x ¼
and
c
0
¼
We obtain
r
g
l
2
p
2
ð
1
þ x
Þ
c
¼
T
¼
1
þ x
2
2
v
¼
g
k
0
¼
g
k
and
¼
c
0
4
for the modified dispersion equation and the phase velocity.