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in curved, leafy streets in an almost rural setting. Just north,
closer to the Jardins du Ranelagh, the buildings in the short
Place du Docteur-Blanche are strikingly Art Nouveau. Housing
anywhere in this area is expensive and it is a popular area
for foreign residents.
Seventeenth Arrondissement (17 e )
Encompassing the old farming areas of Monceau and Ternes
on the west, and the workers' villages of Batignolles and
Epinettes on the east, the 17th arrondissement of today is
largely residential, but the area has several 'moods'. Cut
neatly in two by railroad tracks heading out from Gare Saint-
Lazare, the western area is open and upmarket, while the
east is distinctly working-class and crowded.
On its southern and eastern edges and above the stately
Parc de Monceau, the 17 e has the feel of its affluent neighbours
near l'Etoile. What was once the Plaine de Monceau has
been replaced by broad avenues and gracious apartments
that were, 100 years ago, the most modern in the city. The
avenue de Wagram leads from l'Etoile into the heart of the
district, opening up at Place des Ternes with its charming
flower market. Off boulevard de Courcelles and rue de Prony
is a residential district only somewhat less aristocratic than
the 16 e —extremely genteel residential pockets can be found
particularly toward l'Etoile .
The area is conveniently near the markets of rue de Lévis
and rue Poncelet, both holding fast to an atmosphere that is
disappearing all too quickly. Radiating to its west on streets
such as rue Lebon, rue Bayen and rue Guersant, is a solid
quartier leading to the boulevard Pereire, flanking a grassy
esplanade that covers the railroad tracks. Just beyond is Villa
des Ternes, leafy and comfortable.
The area northeast of the railroad yards has long been a
solid workers' quarter, with only a few pleasant residential
streets amid others of little distinction. Two parallel streets
typify this dichotomy: the working-class rue des Moines, with
drab five-storey buildings, markets and cafés, in contrast with
the nearby Cité des Fleurs, a quiet pedestrian zone of houses
with gardens. Yet, the Square des Batignolles with its rolling
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