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prices, to visit several important hospitals, to frequent some
theatres, museums and the rue de Paradis (known for its
china shops), but they do not come for the neighbourhood.
This holds true all the way to Place de la République.
Toward the busy rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, however,
is an area that was once home to prosperous Parisians who
wanted to live north of the city in homes with gardens and
fresh air. Now some of the old buildings are being restored
and some interesting possibilities can be found. Close to
rue d'Enghien there are still areas to avoid at night, but this
should gradually change.
Toward the east, however, is where the arrondissement
deserves increasing respect. The Canal Saint-Martin opens
up the area and refurbishment is making the quai de Valmy
area one to consider for housing—if anything is available. The
cobblestone strip is shaded by plane trees, arched footbridges
cross at intervals and the quais are lined with graceful,
19th-century apartment buildings, trendy cafés and shops.
Nearby, the eastern surrounds of the lovely Jardin Villemin
are agreeable, despite their proximity to Gare de l'Est. This
area is sought out by young Parisians who are attracted to its
vibrant atmosphere, openness and reasonable prices.
Bastille to Nation (11 e and 12 e )
One of the most up-and-coming areas of eastern Paris, the
southern strip of the 11th arrondissement and the adjacent
northern area of the 12th are much in demand. Starting at
Place de la Bastille and stretching to the enormous Place de la
Nation, this former furniture craftsmen's suburb of Faubourg
Saint-Antoine is being completely revitalised. Prices are still
moderate in areas, though on the rise, as formerly shabby
neighbourhoods are spruced up. Only pockets of the old
proletarian atmosphere can still be found, distressing those
who fear that the area is becoming too homogeneous and
losing its village feel. Most people seem to agree, however,
that the youthful, electric atmosphere is bringing a new
energy to eastern Paris.
It begins at Place de la Bastille, which, from 14 July 1789
(Bastille Day) to the mid-20th century (site of the student
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