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desirability and few green, open spaces to provide relief from
the stress of urban life.
To the east and just out of the tourists' line of sight, the
arrondissement continues with a fitful character. A Jewish
community lives around rue Richer, its Sephardic kosher
restaurants and Middle Eastern shops incongruously situated
near the famous Folies Bergères. Rue Cadet is the area's
market street, and the only bit of green in this otherwise
colourless commercial area is the small Square Montholon.
Farther north, however, the atmosphere becomes more
agreeable, although it can change in character from street to
street. Winding up toward the Place Saint-Georges is a long-
time artists' quarter that once linked sophisticated Paris to
the village of Montmartre in the north. Here too is a section
built around 1820, known as the Nouvelle Athènes, which
became fashionable after the construction of the church of
Notre-Dame-de-Lorette. Today one still finds pleasant streets
amid the uninspired, and although many of the old buildings
have been taken over by offices, others offer agreeable
apartments. Place Gustave-Toudouze and a triangular space
on rue Henri-Monnier are little oases lined with small shops
and cafés, and the Square Alex Biscarre is a hidden touch of
green. At the northwest is Place Adolphe-Max, a charming
square surrounding a small park and playground, but just
beyond is boulevard de Clichy, which can be rather seedy.
In the 9 e are some of the most reasonable rents and
purchase prices in the city. If you are attracted by the prices,
the interesting nightlife toward the northern edges, or even
by the international mix of population that is trickling down
from Montmartre, choose carefully, as almost every street
has its own atmosphere.
Tenth Arrondissement (10 e )
Much of the 10th arrondissement is truly drab. Unfortunately
close together and dominating most of the area, the Gare
du Nord and the Gare de l'Est exist in the atmosphere that
train stations generate, and their railroad yards cut through
the entire northern part of the district. Much of the housing
is working-class and uninspired. People come for the low
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