Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
nonetheless pockets of elegant apartments, especially north
of Notre-Dame, along the quais and around the intimate Place
Dauphine, an enchanting, tranquil triangle of brick and white
stone dating from 1607.
Both the grandeur of the island and its apparent lack of
neighbourhood character can be traced to the redevelopment
of Baron Haussmann, who demolished a warren of slums
and who brought order to the island while dispossessing
its 20,000 residents. It is this centrality that makes the Île-
de-la-Cité convenient, especially for a short stay. Bridges
go directly into the 5
e
and 6
e
on the Left Bank and into the
1
er
and the 4
e
on the Right Bank. Even the
métro
stop on
the island opens onto Place Lépine, the popular market for
flowers and birds.
Just to the east is the Île Saint-Louis. Despite tourists who
stroll down its main street, rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Île, the island
remains peaceful and gracious. Although bridges connect it
to both river banks and to the Île-de-la-Cité, the feeling of
remove from modern life reminds one of how Paris must
have looked 300 years ago.
Poplar trees shade the streets and the views of Paris
from the quais are exceptional. Since development began
only in the 17th century under Louis XIII, there is an
architectural unity to the island, its harmonious, gracious
buildings being of about the same width and height.
The old
hôtels particuliers
(townhouses) and the large restored
apartments still house affluent Parisians, and some foreigners
have bought apartments to rent them to tourists for a well-
deserved, often hefty price. Unfortunately, few long-term
apartments are available, and when they are, their prices
are steep, but the residents clearly think the Île Saint-Louis
worth the price.
First Arrondissement (1
er
)
Encompassing many tourist attractions such as the
Louvre, the Tuileries gardens and the long rue de Rivoli,
along with some of the city's most fashionable hotels, the
1st
arrondissement
is populated day and night, but not
particularly by residents. From its beginnings, this has been
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