THE WORLD CAPITAL OF FOOD - CultureShock! A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette - page 212

taste but drinking water to quench the thirst—this brings
out the flavour of the wine and lessens the effect of the
alcohol. Even some of the better wines are now available in
half-bottles, and restaurants are beginning to serve wine by
the glass. In neighbourhood restaurants, the house wine is
generally a decent vin de table and comes in several sizes: un
carafe is a litre, un demi is half a litre and un quart is a quarter
of a litre. Un pichet (a pitcher) can be had for a demi and a
quart . Regional restaurants offer a selection of wines that
compliment their cuisine. Order, too, some water, either un
carafe d'eau , which is tap water and provided free, or mineral
water, either sparkling ( gazeuse ) or still ( plate ).
Drinking hard liquor such as whisky before dinner is
thought to deaden the taste buds. Instead, try an apéritif ,
such as vermouth, porto, pastis , kir (white wine with a
drop of blackcurrant liquor or crème de cassis ) or kir royal ,
made with champagne. After dinner, a digestif would be a
subtle cognac , the fuller armagnac , calvados or any fruity eau
de vie such as poire William (pear).
Learn about French regional wines by frequenting the
city's ubiquitous bars à vin (wine bars). Each has its particular
emphasis on both wines and food. Open for lunch and early
evening meals, wine bars are similar to cafés, but the offerings
tend to be more interesting. Wine bars can be wood-panelled
and staid, or modern and noisy. The food also varies, but in
general includes light foods and salads. Wine bars are popular
as much for their sociability as their fare, and people linger
after work or late in the evening. Prices are determined by
the wines sampled, and these range from the ordinary to the
excellent. L'Ecluse is a well-known, popular wine bar with
five locations.
Many wine shops have tastings (see pages 228-
229). My favourites (in addition to Le Baron Rouge,
mentioned above):
1 er : Juvéniles; 47 rue de Richelieu; tel: [phone].
Casual wine bar where English is spoken. A large selection
of French and imported wines, by the glass as well as
the bottle. Choose from hearty fare or tapas-style smaller
plates. A fun place. Closed on Sundays.