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It was a relief to leave the single-digit shallows of Brisbane's Moreton Bay behind and
head into open waters, where our main navigational challenges were monitoring shipping
traffic and riding a contrary current. Six-foot seas from the stern quarter reminded our
stomachs that we'd spent too much time on land, but we knew that initial three-day pas-
sage would get us into the swing of things again. On a goodbye sail, the brush of senti-
mentality paints everything in a special light: the exhilaration of the sails filling, the
grandeur of a solitary watch under the southern night sky, and yes, even the feeling of a
queasy stomach.
Given our schedule, we opted for the outside route around the long finger of Fraser Island,
which didn't hold the same appeal as smaller islands farther north. This put us right into
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