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Holiday Fun, Holiday Madness
Boxing Day, December 26, is not just a day to sort through crumpled wrapping paper - not
when you're in Sydney. This day sees the start of the 630-mile Sydney-to-Hobart race in
the inner harbor. Entrants range from professionals aboard hundred-foot maxi yachts to am-
ateurs on thirty-five footers - all madly circling the starting line as a fleet of spectator craft
attempt to avoid collision. We opted to stay away from the melee and climbed the heights
of South Head for an overview instead. There we could observe not only the start but also
the fleet's progress into the open sea.
Given the weather forecast, we watched with the sick fascination of spectators waving gla-
diators off to the arena, wondering what fate they might meet. The 2013 event headed
straight into a gale predicted to bring seventy-knot gusts and thirty-foot waves. Over the
next few days, newscasts showed sobering images of huge racing yachts sporting tiny or-
ange storm sails in a neck-to-neck race for the finish. Eventually, ten of ninety-four yachts
retired, including one dismasting and a broken rudder.
The next big event was one that had us wondering what damage our own hull might sus-
tain: New Year's fireworks over Sydney Harbor. We'd long dreamed of having front-row
seats from our own floating home, but we were spooked by stories of mayhem on the wa-
ter. Were we willing to risk it? If so, where, given the armada of pleasure craft (in various
degrees of seaworthiness and sobriety) all vying for prime views? Minding the official ex-
clusion zones, we whittled the choices down to three. You can't get any closer to the action
than Farm Cove, beside the Opera House. However, that close seemed a little too close.
(Indeed, sailors later reported a nightmare of boats anchored on too-short scopes, dragging
and bumping all night.) The second option is Athol Bay, but that's not only next to the zoo,
but a zoo of boats on New Year's Eve.
We opted for the third choice, Rose Bay, where we could sit back and relax until the fire-
works started - all three rounds. Sydney puts on a family show at 9 p.m. as appetizer, offers
a brief 10:30 palate cleanser, and finishes with a main course at midnight. It's a show that
capitalizes on both the lovely harbor setting and city architecture. That night made our
500-mile detour to Sydney (off a course to our eventual destination, Brisbane) completely
worthwhile.
Between the special events and quiet days at anchor, we thrilled in great sailing in brisk
winds, yet protected waters. What can beat tacking from the Opera House to South Head,
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