The Western Pacific - Pacific Crossing Notes: A Sailor's Guide to the Coconut Milk Run - page 411

Central Vanuatu and Huon Reef
Following the path less traveled, the crew of Victoria extended their visas (roughly US$250
for a crew of four) and devoted a second month to the fascinating islands of Vanuatu. Mask
dances on Ambrym, land diving on Pentecost, and the dugongs of Epi provided one rich
experience after another for parents and kids alike. When the time came to clear out in
Luganville on the island of Espiritu Santo, they could do so knowing the next passage was
relatively short (280 nautical miles) and on a comfortable heading of 240°.
Both families would later agree that the first twenty-four hours out of Vanuatu were the
worst part of either passage, marred by the sloppy, confused seas that seem to haunt this
part of the Pacific. The sea state gradually settled down as steady southeasterlies carried
Victoria west, away from the islands and scattered undersea mounts. Only then could life
on board fall back into the comfortable rhythm they knew from so many previous blue wa-
ter passages.
The reef at Huon barely scratches the ocean surface, so the chart plotter came in handy as
Victoria circled to enter from the leeward side - a far cry from places like Suwarrow where
the atoll's outline was discernible from a fair distance. Within a mile of the entrance,
however, isolated reef patches were clear to the naked eye and piloting in proved straight-
forward. Victoria was immediately greeted by legions of birds, almost Hitchcockian in
number and tendency to swoop in for close fly-overs. As soon as the sloop was anchored,
several birds took up watch, perching on the radar and even the anchor chain. Sea birds
number in the thousands in this pristine area; leaving their mark on Victoria's solar panels
became a daily ritual.
Going ashore on the lone, scrubby islet at Huon meant stepping carefully around scores of
bird nests. October was also mating season for green sea turtles: three or four males queued
up for every female and the sand was riddled with tracks of nesting females, who lay mul-
tiple clutches over several weeks. Having heard that male turtles can become aggressive at
this time of year, the visiting sailors weren't too tempted to snorkel. They did, however,
paddle ashore for hushed nocturnal visits, observing female turtles excavate nests and lay
their eggs. Huon proved to be a natural wonderland shared by only two crews. Paradise, in-
deed.
The catch? While Victoria's anchor had a good grip on the sand bottom thirty feet below, a
persistent swell worked its way over the low reef. Thus life at anchor was rocky and shut-