Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Paradise Unplugged: Southern Vanuatu
A Pacific crossing can bring the lucky cruiser to many pockets of paradise. But nowhere
did we experience quite the raw, unadulterated version we found in Vanuatu: paradise un-
plugged. No power, no price tags, no Internet. Lush, green mountains where nature is king.
A way of life that is both exotic and accessible. Visiting Vanuatu is like stepping into a
photo spread of National Geographic magazine: we saw grass skirts, fierce face paint, and
fiery volcanoes, all up close and personal. It's a place where some people worship a bizarre
cargo cult and the national newspaper covers allegations of witchcraft in local sports com-
petitions. What's not to love?
The south end of Vanuatu lies less than 500 miles WSW of Fiji, a four day passage for
Namani . Heading for the southern end of the island nation and then working up the chain
with the wind is a new privilege for cruisers: previously, customs and immigration could
only be completed on Efate, in central Vanuatu. Many sailors skipped the hard slog against
prevailing trade winds to the southern islands. As a result, the area doesn't have a cruised-
out feel to it. Nowadays, the police in Anatom offer preliminary clearance. We found
ourselves in a happy medium: neither pioneers nor too late to miss the real thing. As we
worked our way north, we could also enjoy the thrill of open ocean sailing in small doses,
either in long daily runs or quick overnights - a bonus for the mile-weary Pacific cruiser.
The minute we stepped ashore in Anatom, we realized that Vanuatu is different than its
Melanesian neighbors. Our first impression was of a reserved population, particularly in
contrast to the outgoing Fijians. Our reception in the village of Anelcauhat was polite but
muted; people waved absently and went about their business, leaving us to go about ours.
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