The Western Pacific - Pacific Crossing Notes: A Sailor's Guide to the Coconut Milk Run - page 372

The West Side: the Mamanucas and Yasawas
Conventional wisdom seems to depict these island groups as spoiled and “not the real Fiji.”
A pity, because the development is hardly as intrusive as some insist. Having been warned
of party-all-night resorts and corrupt villagers, we were delighted to find peaceful anchor-
ages and friendly people. Even at the Blue Lagoon, the busiest spot in the Yasawas, we
found “only” a dozen spread-out boats and a very low-key resort. Small cruise ships will
drop anchor and claim sections of beach for their guests, but they move on quickly. Even at
peak times, island trails are virtually unvisited, a walker's paradise for the taking.
The west side of the Yasawas is one big blank spot on the chart, except for bold letters:
UNSURVEYED. A constant lookout for isolated dangers is a must, even if you stick to
tracks handed down by other sailors. The good news is that this side of Fiji is much drier
and sunnier than the east, meaning good visibility.
The south end of Waya Island has some of the most stunning scenery in the Yasawas, while
Drawaqa draws visitors with its promise of snorkeling with manta rays (often too many vis-
itors, including resort guests). The Blue Lagoon is neither as spoiled nor as overcrowded as
some claim, and we found it to be a lovely place to catch up on business, using the strong
Internet signal. A local farmer also makes the rounds of the anchorage by skiff, making it
possible to stock up on produce. Besides these well-known spots, there are a dozen other
anchorages where you can hole up for a day or a week, claiming the views to yourself.
The Mamanucas are another mine field of reefs, though slightly better charted (map, #8).
High, craggy islands draw intrepid sailors to the likes of Monuriki, where Tom Hanks'
Castaway was filmed. Sooner or later, all roads lead to Musket Cove Marina, which offers
moorings, dock space, and full access to resort facilities. Musket Cove is an aggregation
point for cruisers, a great place to catch up with friends - starting with the pool and barbe-
cue area!