Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Spice of Life: the Boater's Barter
Economy
Out on northern Tonga's remote Kenutu Island, we had it all: a lush, uninhabited paradise,
turquoise anchorage, vibrant coral reefs.
We even had good company, a merry little group of accomplished sailors. The Kiwis had
just been to Norway and back - via Cape Horn. The Japanese had navigated the treacher-
ous waters of their country's medieval sailing bureaucracy. The South Africans were emig-
rating to Australia, the slow way. We had a lot in common, including empty pantries. The
Americans were out of coffee; we were low on flour. The South Africans needed outboard
fuel. But the shortage most keenly felt was by the Japanese: no beer! What to do?
We could, of course, head back to the nearest shop, two day hops away. But the whole
point of being out here was not to go back there. Plus, getting to Kenutu wasn't exactly a
breeze. Breezy, maybe, but not easy: a narrow, reef-strewn gauntlet; the kind you squeeze
through, then look back on with a heavy gulp.
But wait! The Japanese couple did have flour. The South Africans had coffee, the Americ-
ans had fuel, and we were willing to part with a few bottles of beer.
Ah, the feeling of kicking back in a remote anchorage with everything you need!
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