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mal” four-year circumnavigation. All congregated on the beach to share sundowner
snacks and companionship. Though this wasn't a feast in the literal sense, we savored de-
licious anecdotes and chased them down with scrumptious jokes as our driftwood camp-
fire crackled in the sand.
Sailing back into the heart of the Vava'u group, we headed for little Lape, population
thirty. There, Nicky was invited to spend a day at the one-room schoolhouse. His favorite
subject? Recess, naturally. As an after school treat, we snorkeled on the magnificent Coral
Gardens, spotting whole colonies of clownfish among the rainbow assortment of shapes.
We had ticked off all the best of Vava'u in two brisk weeks, including swimming into sub-
merged caves and braving the narrow, rocky pass into the lagoon of doughnut-shaped
Hunga Island. We were ready to move on, content to have done everything. Everything,
that is, except a feast.
A day at school on Lape Island
I had to ask myself: what was this obsession with feasting, anyway? Apparently, it all
goes back to 1953, when Tonga's Queen Salote attended the coronation of a young Queen
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