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Snorkeling in Tonga's Vava'u Group
When at last the froth of the outer reef boiled just off our bow, we seized our reward: eas-
ing the sheets to fly northward on a beam reach. Markus stood at the bow, signaling a
quick jog to port, then starboard as we dodged coral heads that littered the narrow channel
between two spitting reefs. What a glorious sensation to sail this serpentine route without
the noise of an engine or the filtering effect of a chart plotter! We were back to the basics
of sailing and loving it. When at last our anchor bit the sand in the lee of uninhabited Ken-
utu, we felt a warm glow of accomplishment.
Kenutu's location behind a gauntlet of reefs poses a selection process of sorts, and we
were proud to have made the cut along with six interesting and highly accomplished
crews. Two South Africans were on their way to a new life Down Under, and a Japanese
couple was circling the Pacific. One family was heading home to New Zealand after a
nine-year cruise to Norway via Chile, while another was about to close the loop on a “nor-
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