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eptitude any longer, local women leaned in with pointers until one slightly more coordin-
ated sailor conquered two coconuts in two minutes. Then, the locals rolled up their sleeves
and demonstrated how it was done properly: in a mere twenty or thirty seconds (men's
“warrior” and women's divisions, respectively). We all enjoyed the fun and laughter, feel-
ing a touch of kinship with the islanders who had so kindly included us in their commu-
nity get-together.
We had to ask ourselves: could we find one negative thing to report about Niue? By
nature, the island is a destination rather than a cruising ground: you sail to the single port
and then explore ashore. The main drawback for sailors is that Alofi's bay is scarcely
more than a light indentation in the western coastline, so it's important to track weather
developments at all times. The NYC moorings are exceptionally strong and well-main-
tained (not to mention reasonably priced at NZ$15 per night), but a fair amount of rocking
and rolling is to be expected. Strong, sustained west winds or south swell can even drive
yachts away entirely. That said, most sailors find the usual motion tolerable and depart the
Rock of Polynesia with fair memories.
Pushed by approaching cyclone season and pulled by our next destination, we eventually
admitted that it was time to drag ourselves away from yet another “most favorite” island.
To paraphrase Captain Cook's comments, I'll state for the record: “Knowing much good
was to be got of these kind people and at the lovely isle, we return'd on board … and with
heavy hearts, made sail to the west.”
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