The Eastern Pacific - Pacific Crossing Notes: A Sailor's Guide to the Coconut Milk Run - page 288

Coconut husking competition
Exciting as the sports events are, the Heiva's primary attractions are the dance and song
competitions that spread over eight evenings, each featuring two dance and two musical
troops. Though the events are judged and winners take home hefty prize purses, it's all
about prestige. We were absolutely wowed by the spectacle of one hundred synchronized
dancers wearing gorgeous flower and shell-adorned costumes that sway with swinging
hips to a blood-pumping drum beat. The open-air, seaside setting in Papeete's grassy
To'ata Place truly makes the evening one to remember. Sailors moored at the public docks
are only a five minute walk away from the arena and have front row views for the fire-
works on France's national holiday, July 14.
Best of all, the Heiva remains a largely non-commercial, local affair despite its highly pro-
fessional organization. Tahitians make up the majority of the audiences; there are no
souvenirs for sale and no hawkers, just a lot of color, culture, and fun. Tickets to the song
and dance performances in the main arena go for between $10 and $30, while the sports
events are free. All in all, the Heiva is a unique, month-long celebration of tradition, folk-
lore, and artistry that should be on every Pacific cruiser's calendar.