The Eastern Pacific - Pacific Crossing Notes: A Sailor's Guide to the Coconut Milk Run - page 284

Practicalities
French and Tahitian are the two languages of these islands. Though the islanders are well
accustomed to tourists, they usually take the time for a friendly exchange. Try greeting
people with a friendly iorana instead of bonjour. ATMs are few and far between, so be sure
to stock up on CFPs (Cour de Franc Pacifique, a currency tied to the Euro) before heading
away from Tahiti's Papeete (map, #9) or Bora Bora's Vaitape (map, #8). Your best bet for
provisioning outside the massive Hypermarches of Tahiti (chains such as Carrefour and
Champeon in Papeete and near Marina Taina) is the large supermarket in Huahine's main
town, Fare (map, #15). There, you can anchor in deep water (twenty-five to thirty feet) and
dinghy in or tie up alongside the small dock for a short stop. While one crew member tops
up the water tank for a small fee, another can go shopping just a few hundred yards down
the road. Even Bora Bora's shops are not as well stocked as this one. Eggs are a rarity
throughout all the islands, so grab several dozen when you get the chance. The Society Is-
lands are the last place you'll find canned butter for many miles to come, so stock up be-
fore departing.
Tahiti itself has lost a lot of the magic that once so captivated sailors, including the mutin-
eers of the Bounty. On the other hand, Papeete is the best place for spares, repairs, and gen-
eral supplies between Panama and New Zealand. We found that prices were comparable
with those we later found in New Zealand and were glad not to have put off the new stand-
ing rigging our boat so sorely needed. Tahiti and Raiatea both offer several options for haul
outs. Cruisers who must leave their boats unattended for visits home can consider Tahiti's
Marina Taina (moorings or berths; reservations for peak season recommended) or the pub-
lic quay in Papeete. In past years, stories of rats and theft marred the reputation of the pub-
lic docks, but we heard only positive reports during our visit.
Bora Bora is the last place to purchase duty-free fuel before heading west to the Cook Is-
lands or Samoa, but you'll only be granted this privilege if you obtained a tax-free form
back in Papeete. Plan ahead or you'll pay full price!