Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Enjoying the Atolls
As far as we're concerned, the atolls are a place to enjoy solitude rather than sample village
culture. However, the main settlements in Fakarava (population 1,000) and Rangiroa (pop-
ulation 3,000) do offer the advantages of Internet, small shops, and dive outfitters who can
shuttle SCUBA enthusiasts to some of the most spectacular dive locations in the world.
One notable site is Fakarava's legendary South Pass, where dozens - even hundreds - of
sharks feast on the multi-course meal the currents sweep past, a particularly action-packed
scene during full moon phases. Not every venture into the water has to be an exhilarating
thrill, however; there is also the pure serenity of snorkeling off your boat in idyllic green-
blue shallows.
Many sailors find that their thirst for atoll living is quenched after one or two stops in the
Tuamotus. Some find the experience nerve-wracking, especially when unsettled weather
demonstrates just how exposed the anchorages really are. Other sailors can't get enough of
this paradise and linger an entire season in the archipelago. They revel in largely untouched
atolls such as Makemo, Kauehi, and Raroia. Ultimately, the length of time sailors devote to
cruising the Tuamotus depends as much on their ability to tolerate the challenges as on
their luck with weather. Outside time pressures also conspire to interrupt the reveries of
some cruisers, who find themselves hurrying to Tahiti to meet scheduled guests. Air Tahiti
Nui offers regular flights between Tahiti and many of the atolls, so you might ask visitors
to book last-minute connecting flights to the Tuamotus rather than rushing away from this
unique location.
Are the Tuamotus truly dangerous? Given a fair degree of prudence, no. On our 1981
Dufour 35 with a six-foot draft, we used GPS as well as both paper and computer charts,
but we didn't have a chart plotter at the time, and we never needed the radar. We did use
our SSB radio and Pactor Modem to download weather information daily. Consequently,
we were able to keep a step ahead of unpleasant conditions and truly enjoy the magic of the
Tuamotus. What's to keep you from doing the same?
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