The Eastern Pacific - Pacific Crossing Notes: A Sailor's Guide to the Coconut Milk Run - page 259

Gateways to the Tuamotus
The two most-traveled gateways to the Tuamotus are Rangiroa, at the northwestern edge of
the group, and Fakarava, at roughly the central point of the chain. Each of these atolls fea-
ture wide, well-marked passes that even cruise ships can enter, with easy-to-follow chan-
nels inside. Naturally, these user-friendly passes mean that Rangiroa and Fakarava are the
atolls most impacted by outside influences in terms of both culture and environment. On
the other hand, both offer relative safety and peace of mind, making a balanced trade-off.
Rangiroa lies on a direct line from the Marquesas to Tahiti and therefore makes a natural
stopping point for many west-bound sailors, especially those on a tight schedule. This atoll
is so vast (the second-largest in the world) that you can build an entire cruising itinerary
within its sea-like lagoon. For this reason, some make Rangiroa their one and only stop in
the archipelago before continuing on to Tahiti. Others add in neighboring Ahe, which like-
wise promises a straightforward pass and easily accessible lagoon anchorage. Fakarava, a
centrally located atoll within the archipelago, calls for only a minor deviation from the dir-
ect line from the Marquesas to Tahiti, and is also a logical stopping point for sailors arriv-
ing via the less-traveled Gambier Islands. Next door to Fakarava is lovely Toau, population
two; this atoll is the perfect second step along a natural progression through the ar-
chipelago.