The Eastern Pacific - Pacific Crossing Notes: A Sailor's Guide to the Coconut Milk Run - page 241

Great Experiences
One of the most memorable experiences to seek in the Marquesas is a visit to the manta
rays of Hanamoenoa Bay on northwest Tahuata (map, #2). Packs of six or more of these
graceful, black-coated behemoths sweep through the bay, vacuuming up plankton with
their huge mouths. To snorkel alongside these beauties is simply an awe-inspiring experi-
ence. Although we were careful not to crowd the mantas, they showed no such inhibitions,
swimming right past and even brushing against us. It's an incredible experience if you're
lucky enough to catch the mantas on one of their irregular sweeps through the bay; they
seem to come and go on a two to three day schedule.
Throughout the Marquesas, cruisers are frequently offered meals by local families, at a
price of $15 to $30 per person. Much more than a delicious meal, it's also an opportunity to
“taste” local life and culture up close and personal. You'll be swept into the house, into the
family, and into conversation on everything from politics, education, and island economics
to local gossip. Of course, it helps to speak a little French, but sign language works, too.
It's amazing to witness the preparation that goes into the meal: instead of running to one of
the tiny local shops, the family hunts and gathers in the immediate vicinity of their garden.
Fruit grows in abundance, chickens are cornered in the yard, fish hauled from the sea, and a
hunting expedition heads to the hills for fresh goat meat. It's a multi-course meal to remem-
ber!