The Eastern Pacific - Pacific Crossing Notes: A Sailor's Guide to the Coconut Milk Run - page 240

Great Sights
Many cultural traditions ground to a halt in the dark years following contact with the first
Europeans, whose diseases decimated the local population. The population of Hiva Oa
alone fell from an estimated tens of thousands to a mere 2,000 today. Therefore, cult sites
like the Iipona archaeological site (near the village of Puamau on Hiva Oa, map, #7) re-
main cloaked in mystery, even to locals. But there is no mistaking the spiritual aura of this
vine-clad site, where huge statues perch proudly on massive stone pedestals. If there's one
archaeological site to visit in the Marquesas, this is it. You can brave the rolly north coast
anchorage or hire a driver in Atuona for an all-day island tour. One well-known local tour
driver is Marie-Jo. Bouncing along the hairpin curves of the coastal road in the back of her
pick-up with a hibiscus flower tucked behind one ear is a minor adventure in itself!
Paul Gaugin ran restlessly around the globe until he found this verdant speck of land far,
far from his native France. A small museum at the site of his atelier in Atuona on Hiva Oa
(map, #8) is well worth a visit. You won't find originals here, only copies, but you will see
the works within the context that inspired the artist to create some of his best-known paint-
ings. Gauguin's grave in the hillside cemetery above town is also something of a minor pil-
grimage site.
Ua Pou's skyline is unique even among islands known for their dramatic profiles, with ver-
tical rock pinnacles that puncture the clouds. Even half-shrouded, the sight is breathtaking.
Although many cruisers seem to bypass this island, it pays to make at least a one or two
day stop in either Hakanai or the less-frequented Hakahetau Bay (map, #5). The latter may
be your best chance for an anchorage of your own.