Panama - Pacific Crossing Notes: A Sailor's Guide to the Coconut Milk Run - page 186

A mola from Kuna Yala
In some places, cultural traditions have already faded: in Nargana or Wichubhuala, wo-
men wear normal western wear instead of the traditional mola, and thatched roofs are
gradually giving way to corrugated iron. Other towns follow the old ways, but remember,
these are not open-air museums, but living communities, so consider what impact your
presence will have. Some cruisers avoid traditional towns altogether for fear of intruding
on local ways. While the Kuna are extremely polite and tolerant, you should reciprocate
with your best behavior if you do choose to visit. Dress modestly and don't even think
about snapping a photo without asking for permission (which will usually be denied).
Only the younger Kuna members speak Spanish. The older generation speaks the indigen-
ous Kuna language: start with a friendly Na (hello) and Nuede (thank you). The outer is-
lands are not permanently inhabited, but many are dotted with small Kuna camps of one
or two huts. Villagers come out in shifts of a few weeks to fish and tend the coconuts;
some will also visit yachts to sell their catch or molas.
What exactly is a mola? It is an intricately sewn cloth panel that was originally designed
as the midriff section of a woman's blouse; hence, they are usually about fifteen by twelve
inches in size. Patterns are made using deft appliqué techniques, ranging from traditional
geometric designs to representations of animals or people, finished off with embroidered
detail. All molas are eye-catching, but if you're in the market for a nice piece, examine
each carefully. Check how straight the edges are (none are perfectly straight since they are
made by hand while held on the lap) and examine the reverse side to see how tightly
spaced the stitches are (small, close stitches are a sign of good workmanship). Molas cost
about $10 and up; the more detail, the more expensive.