Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sami life (in the garden, a
gammen
, or traditional Sami sod house, offers free coffee in
summer)andecclesiastical artandaccoutrements(lookforthesetofhourglasses,turnedto
warn the vicar that his sermon time was running out). There's also a small section on the
Vikings, who were of lesser importance in the history of northern Norway.
Downstairs, learn about rocks of the north. The newest section presents a number of
thought-provoking themes (such as the role of fire, the consequences of global warming
and loss of wilderness - until recently as much as 45% of Norway's area) with plenty of
illustration and touch-screen involvement. See too the replica 'northern lights machine', or
terrella,anearlyinventionthatgivesyouinminiatureasenseofthesplendouroftheaurora
borealis. Take bus 37.
Ishavskatedralen
CHURCH
(
www.ishavskatedralen.no
;
Hans Nilsensvei 41; adult/child Nkr30/free; 9am-7pm
Mon-Sat, 1-7pm Sun)
The 11 arching triangles of the
Arctic Cathedral
(1965), as the
Tromsdalen Church is more usually called, suggest glacial crevasses and auroral curtains.
The magnificent glowing stained-glass window that occupies almost the whole of the east
end depicts Christ redescending to earth. Look back toward the west end and the contem-
porary organ, a work of steely art in itself, then up high to take in the lamps of Czech crys-
tal, hanging in space like icicles. Take bus 20 or 24.
Polar Museum
MUSEUM
Offline map
Google map
(Polarmuseet;
www.polarmuseum.no
;
Søndre Toll-bugata
11; adult/child Nkr60/10; 10am-7pm mid-Jun-mid-Aug, 11am-3pm or 5pm rest
of year)
The 1st floor of this harbourside museum illustrates early polar research, espe-
cially the ventures of Nansen and Amundsen. Downstairs there's a well-mounted exhibi-
tion about the hunting and trapping of fuzzy Arctic creatures on Svalbard before coal be-
came king there. Note the nasty exploding harpoons outside; the whale didn't stand much
of a chance.
FRIDTJOF NANSEN
Fridtjof Nansen (1861-1930), the Norwegian all-rounder, explorer and diplomat,
pushed the frontiers of human endurance and human compassion.
