Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Museum; adult/child Nkr50/25;
10am-6pm or 8pm late May-Aug) . There's also an
affiliated antique shop upstairs.
Reserve at the Doll Museum for Sakrisøy Rorbuer ( 76 09 21 43; www.lofoten.ws ;
cabin Nkr745-1640) , a relatively authentic complex of ochre-coloured cottages hovering
above the water. You can also hire motorboats (Nkr450 to Nkr550 per day).
For self-catering, the fish shop and cafe Sjømat , across the street from the Doll Mu-
seum, is famous for its fish cakes, salmon burgers, smoked salmon, prawns, whale steaks
and - go on, be adventurous - seagulls' eggs.
HAMNØY
Hamnøy Mat og Vinbu FISH RESTAURANT
( 76 09 21 45; mains Nkr175-225; May-early Sep) This welcoming restaurant is
run by three generations of the same family (the teenage boys are co-opted for washing-up
duties). It's well regarded for local specialities, including whale, bacalao and cod tongues.
Grandmother takes care of the traditional dishes - just try her fish cakes - while her son is
the main chef. Its fish is of the freshest, bought daily from the harbour barely 100m away.
Southern Islands
Thisremotepairofislandsissuperbforbirdwatching.Værøy,mainlyhighandrugged,and
Røst, flat as a pancake, both offer good walking and relative solitude in well-touristed Lo-
foten.
FISHY MEDICINE
Remember the breakfast tantrums, the spoon being forced into your mouth and that
strong fishy flavour overcoming the nutty taste of cornflakes, as your parents forced
the fluid down your throat to stave off winter colds?
It wasn't always so. Tran, cod-liver oil, was originally used as fuel for lamps or in
the tanning process for skins and nobody would have dreamed of imbibing it. But
gradually its medicinal properties were understood and, in an early example of delib-
erate - and highly successful - marketing, cod-liver oil became the preventative of
choice throughout Europe. It's a bit like olive oil; the first pressing, the virgin oil, is
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