Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
inhospitable wilderness aretraces ofseveral ancient Samifencesandsacrificial sites,some
dating from as early as the 9th century.
A 15km walk to the east leads to Graddis, near the Swedish border, and the venerable
Graddis Fjellstue og Camping ( 75 69 43 41; graddis@c2i.net; s/d from Nkr480/
620; mid-Jun-mid-Aug).
This cosy little guesthouse has been run by the same family
since its establishment in 1867. It makes an excellent base to launch yourself into one
of Norway's least-tramped hiking areas. Camping is also available, and Methuselah, a
1000-year-old pine tree, is a nearby attraction.
Bycar,accesstoSaltfjelletiseitheralongtheE6ortheRv77,whichfollowsthesouthern
slope of the Junkerdalen valley. Rail travellers can disembark at Lønsdal en route between
Fauske and Trondheim. Check whether you need to request a stop.
Arctic Circle Centre
Latitude 66°33' N marks the southernmost extent of the midnight sun on the summer sol-
stice and the ragged edge of the polar night on the winter solstice. As the Arctic Highway
between Mo i Rana and Fauske cuts across this imaginary line, it should be a magical mo-
ment.
But the
Polarsirkelsenteret (
www.polarsirkelsenteret.no
; optional exhibition adult/
child Nkr50/20; May-mid-Sep)
, beside the E6 and surrounded by the bleak moors
that roll in from Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park, is something of a tourist trap. There's
an exhibition of stuffed wildlife and an audiovisual presentation on the Arctic regions.
However, the place exists mostly to stamp postcards with a special Arctic Circle postmark
andsellcertificates(Nkr99)forvisitorstoauthenticatetheircrossingtheline.Borealkitsch
is flogged here by the basketload - leering trolls, woolly reindeer, fluffy polar bears and
briefs emblazoned with 'Arctic Circle' to show off to your more intimate friends back
home.Ontheplusside,asitswebsitechoosestohighlight,ithas'verygoodlavatoryfacil-
ities'. Outside and altogether more sober and serious are the memorials to Slav forced la-
bourers who, during WWII, constructed the Arctic Highway for the occupying Nazi forces
and died far from home.
Northbound travellers will feel spirits rising again as they leave these bleak uplands and
descendintoarelativelylush,greenenvironmentthat'smuchmoretypicalofnorthernNor-
way.
