Trøndelag - Norway - page 617

making it the most popular pilgrimage site in northern Europe. Historically, both rich
and poor journeyed from Oslo for up to 25 days, while others braved longer sea voy-
ages from Iceland, Greenland, Orkney and the Faroe Islands. St Olav's grave became
the northern compass point for European pilgrims; the other spiritual compass points
were Rome in the south, Jerusalem in the east and Santiago de Compostela in the
west.
As pilgrims travelled from village to village, their routes became arteries for the
spread of the cult of St Olav. The pilgrims' way, with wild mountains, forests and
rivers to cross, certainly gave plenty of opportunity to reflect upon the hardships of
life's journey towards eternity. Most pilgrims travelled on foot, while the better off
journeyed on horseback. Those without means relied on local hospitality; pilgrims
were held in high esteem and openly welcomed.
In 1997 the Pilgrims' Way - 926km in all, counting alternative sections - was in-
augurated, reviving the ancient pilgrimage route between Oslo and Trondheim. The
rugged route, mainly mountain tracks and gravelled roads, has been blazed (look for
the logo: the cross of St Olav intertwined with the quatrefoil knot indicating a tourist
attraction, which you see everywhere). It follows, wherever practicable, ancient doc-
umented trails. Along the trail are signs indicating place names and monuments
linked to the life and works of St Olav, as well as ancient burial mounds and other
historic monuments.
For more information, call up www.pilgrim.info/en .
The Pilgrim Road to Nidaros - a Trekker's Guidebook by Alison Raju, published
by Cicerone Press, is an indispensable, well-written guide if, whether pilgrim or
hiker, you're thinking of taking on a stretch.