Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
STORDAL
If you're travelling between Valldal and Ålesund on the Rv650, do make a short stop
at Stordal's
Rose Church (Rosekyrka; adult/child Nkr30/15; 11am-4pm mid-
Jun-mid-Aug)
. Unassuming from the outside, it was constructed in 1789 on the site
of an earlier stave church, elements of which were retained. Inside comes the sur-
prise: the roof, walls and every last pillar are sumptuously painted with scenes from
the Bible and portraits of saints in an engagingly naive interpretation of high
baroque.
Geiranger
POP 250
Scattered cliffside farms, most long abandoned, still cling to the towering, near-sheer
wallsoftwisting,20km-longemerald-greenGeirangerfjord,aUnescoWorldHeritageSite.
Waterfalls - the Seven Sisters, the Suitor, the Bridal Veil and more - sluice and tumble.
The one-hour scenic ferry trip along its length between Geiranger and Hellesylt is as much
minicruise as means of transport - take it even if you've no particular reason to get to the
other end.
If you arrive from Hellesylt, Geiranger village, despite its fabulous location at the head
of the fjord, comes as a shock to the system as you mingle with the hordes of visitors
brought in by bus and ship. Every year Geiranger wilts under the presence of over 600,000
visitors and more than 150 cruise ships (two were moored offshore last time we visited,
each polluting the pure air with dark fumes from its smokestack, while their bumboats
belched diesel vapours at the jetty).
You'll gasp for another reason if you drop from the north down the Ørnevegen, the
Eagle'sWay,asthefinal,superspectacular7kmoftheRv63fromÅndalsnesiscalled.Asit
twists down the almost sheer slope in 11 hairpin bends, each one gives a yet more impress-
ive glimpse along the narrow fjord.
Andwhicheverwayyou'recomingorgoing,oncethelastcruiseshipandtourbusofthe
day has pulled out, serenity returns to this tiny port.
