Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
possible to pick up the regular SJ train back to Stockholm; check for connections at the
Mariefred tourist office. Of course, you could always come to Mariefred from
Stockholm by this route too (see below).
Gripsholms slott
Mid-May to mid-Sept daily 10am-4pm; mid-Sept to Nov Sat & Sun noon-3pm • 80kr • English guided tours (mid-May to mid-Sept daily
1pm; 1hr; 20kr extra) • W royalcourt.se
Lovely though Mariefred is, it's really only a preface to seeing Gripsholms slott , the
imposing red-brick castle built on a round island just to the south (walk up the
quayside, and you'll see the path to the castle running across the grass by the water's
edge). In the late fourteenth century, Bo Johnsson Grip, the Swedish high chancellor,
began to build a fortified castle at Mariefred, although the present building owes more
to two Gustavs - Gustav Vasa, who started rebuilding in the sixteenth century, and
Gustav III, who was responsible for major restructuring a couple of centuries later.
Rather than the hybrid that might be expected, the result is rather pleasing - an
engaging textbook castle with turrets, great halls, corridors and battlements. There are
optional English-language guided tours , on which the key elements of the castle's
construction and history are pointed out: there's a vast portrait collection that includes
recently commissioned works depicting political and cultural figures as well as assorted
royalty and nobility; some fine decorative and architectural work; and, as at
Drottningholm, a private theatre, built for Gustav III. It's too delicate to be used for
performances these days, but in summer, plays and other events are staged out in the
castle grounds; more information can be obtained from Mariefred's tourist office (see
below). Even ABBA have put in an appearance here - in February 1974 Gripsholm was
used as the cover shot for their Waterloo album.
2
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
MARIEFRED
By train There's a service from Stockholm to Läggesta,
from where connecting buses and, at certain times of year,
steam trains (see p.87) shuttle passengers into Mariefred.
Destination Stockholm (hourly; 35min).
By steamboat In summer, you can get here from
Stockholm on the S/S Mariefred , which leaves from Klara
Mälarstrand, near Stadshuset on Kungsholmen (late May
to mid-June & late Aug to mid-Sept Sat & Sun 10am; mid-
June to mid-Aug Tues-Sun 10am; 3hr 30min each way;
190kr one-way, 260kr return; W mariefred.info); buy your
ticket on board.
INFORMATION
Tourist o ce Located on a houseboat down by the
harbour at Hamnplanen (mid-May to mid-June & early to
mid-Sept Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 9am-4pm; mid-June
to late June & Aug Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat & Sun
9am-4pm; July daily 9am-7pm; T 0159 296 99,
W strangnas.se).
ACCOMMODATION
Djurgårdsporten Djurgårdsgatan 2 T 0159 124 15,
E djurgardsporten@live.se. Basic but centrally located
youth hostel; topics up early in summ er so ma ke sure you
reserve well in advance. Dorms 200kr , doubles 400kr
Gripsholms Värdhus Kyrkogatan 1 T 0159 347 50,
W gripsholms-vardshus.se. Gloriously opulent rooms full
of elegant period furniture in a beautifully restored inn (the
oldest in Sweden) overlooking the castle and the lake.
Supplements from 500kr p er night will upgrade you to one
of several luxurious suites. 2290kr
EATING
Anna på torget Kyrkogatan 11. Head to this café in the
main square for coffee and cakes and don't miss its
mouthwatering tart of the month ( månadens tårta ). Also
serves its own brand of hand-selected fair-trade coffee. Mon-
Thurs 9am-6pm, Sat 10am-11pm, Sun 10am-6pm.
Gripsholms Slottspaviljong In the park between the
castle and the town centre. There's a good selection of
salmon and meat dishes at this open-air café, costing
around 105-195kr, as well as light lunches and snacks.
May-Aug daily 10am-9pm.
Gripsholms Värdhus Kyrkogatan 1 T 0159 347 50.
Treat yourself to lunch here and save a fortune over the
regular evening prices; whenever you eat, though, the
modern Swedish food is excellent (mains cost 225-315kr)
 
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