Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
pieces However, since all boats to and from Stockholm dock at Vaxholm, it's often
swarming with visitors, so do yourself a favour - stay on the boat and seek out one of the
archipelago's quieter islands, which are quite frankly more worthy of your attention.
Grinda
1hr 20min from Stockholm by boat
Grinda , a thickly wooded island typical of the central archipelago, with some sandy
beaches. It's particularly popular with families and so can be busy, particularly at weekends.
In its favour, Grinda has frequent boat connections, a pleasant youth hostel (see p.85),
several ad hoc campsites , a restaurant and a café in the centre of the island. To enjoy the
sunshine on summer afternoons, head for beaches on the southern side of the island, as the
tall trees on the northern side block out the sun. Boats dock at two jetties at its southern
(Södra Grinda) and northern ends (Norra Grinda); a walk between the two takes thirty to
forty minutes.
2
Gällnö
1hr 30min-2hr from Stockholm by boat
A beautiful low-lying island covered with thick pine forest, Gällnö is the archipelago at its
best. Home to just thirty people, a couple of whom farm the land near the jetty, Gällnö
has been designated a nature reserve: you can spot deer in the forest or watch eider ducks
diving for fish. The youth hostel (see p.85) is well signposted from the main village, where
there's also a small shop selling provisions. From here, there's the choice of two walks :
either head east through the forest for Gällnönäs, from where you can pick up boats back
to Stockholm or further out into the islands, or continue past the youth hostel, following
signs for Brännholmen until you arrive at a small bay popular with yachties. Look for the
hut where the toilet is, as one of its walls bears a map and sign on the outside showing the
path leading from here to the row-boats - these enable you to cross the narrow sound
(around 15m wide) separating Gällnö from its neighbour, Karklö. When you head across,
remember to leave one boat on either side of the sound (see box, p.84).
Karklö
2hr from Stockholm by boat
Karklö is one of the most unspoilt islands in the archipelago and, combined with Gällnö,
makes for an excellent day-trip from Stockholm. here are no shops or roads here, only
tracks which meander across the island and around farmers' fields, connecting the spot
where the row-boats are moored with the main jetty on the other side, where the boats
from Stockholm dock. The paths can be difficult to find at times, so it's best to ask
directions in the main village, which is close to the row-boat moorings.
THANK VIGGSÖ FOR THE MUSIC
The rocky outcrop topped by dense pine forest that lies sandwiched between Grinda and
much larger Värmdö to the south holds a big secret. It was here on the island of Viggsö
that ABBA composed Dancing Queen , Fernando and several other chart-topping hits; shots
of Viggsö were also used in ABBA The Movie . Agnetha and Björn bought a summer cottage
here in 1971, closely followed in 1974 by Benny and Anni-Frid; the sound of piano music
drifting across the treetops a sure sign that one or other couple had sailed their boat out
from Stockholm to spend a few days away from the city. The two men would spend days at
a time in Björn's yellow wooden outhouse hammering away at a battered upright piano
and strumming an old guitar - the restorative calm of Viggsö was at the heart of much of
ABBA's music-making.
 
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