Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
teenage boy who dreams of becoming a rock star, the topic ofers a rare insight into the
psyche of the northern Swede and life in the remote Torne Valley. Dotted across town,
striking yellow signposts proudly point the way to some of the most infamous locations
to feature in the dramatization: Vittulajänkkä, Paskajänkkä and slightly more sedate
Strandvägen, all plotted on the free map available from the tourist office.
Having dealt with Pajala the film location, there's little else to do in this
unprepossessing town other than rest up for a day or so - take a walk along the
riverside, or head of in search of the great grey
owl
(
strix nebulosa
) that sweeps through
the nearby forests. The huge wooden
model
of the bird in the bus station will give you
an idea of its appearance: lichen grey, with long, slender tail feathers and a white
crescent between its black and yellow eyes. Close by, on Torggatan, is the largest
sundial
in the world, a circular affair with a diameter of 38m which tells the real solar
time - always 18-25min different to that of a regular watch or clock.
9
Laestadiuspörtet
Laestadius Museum • Laestadiusvägen 36 • Early June to mid-June & mid-Aug to late Aug Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; mid-June to mid-Aug
daily 10am-6pm • 40kr
The solid timber structure known in Swedish as
Laestadiuspörtet
is where Lars Levi
Laestadius lived whilst rector in Pajala and is now a museum dedicated to his life. The
spartan interior, including the bedroom where he died in 1861, has been left as it was
when he lived here. he guided tour will help make sense of the man and his teachings
and throw some light onto his rantings about alcohol and his relationship with the
Sámi
.
Laestadius strove throughout his life to rid Lapland of alcohol abuse though he was rarely
popular hereabouts since many workers were paid for their toils in hard liquor. His
grave
is located in the middle section of the old graveyard next to Pajala kyrka on Kyrkallén.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
PAJALA
By bus
The bus station is right in the centre of town.
Tourist o
ce
In the bus station (mid-June to mid-Aug
Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat & Sun 11am-5pm; mid-Aug to
mid-June
Mon-Fri
8am-4pm;
T
0978
100
15,
W
heatolapland.com).
ACCOMMODATION
Ì
Aurora Retreat
Prästgården, Junosuando
T
0978
300 61,
W
auroraretreat.se;
take bus #53 towards Kiruna
.
The best place to stay is out of town in the quiet village of
Junosuando (57km northwest):
Aurora
is an eco-friendly
haven of stripped pine and potted plants in the former
vicarage dating from 1928. Rooms here are airy and
spaciou
is and the emphasis
is on minimal environmental
impact.
Full board 1590kr
Smedjan
Fridhemsvägen 1
T
0978 108 15,
W
hotellsmedjan.se.
A rather functional place featuring
modern en-suite rooms; it's a 10min walk from the centre,
east along Tornedalsvägen and then right into Kengisgatan.
LAESTADIUS AND THE DEMON DRINK
No other man has made a greater impression on northern Scandinavia than
Lars Levi
Laestadius
(1800-61), the Swedish revivalist preacher who dedicated his life to saving people
in three countries from the perils of
alcoholism
. Born in Jäkkvik in 1800 and educated in
Kvikkjokk, the young Laestadius soon developed a close relationship with the indigenous
Sámi
, many of whom had turned to drink to escape the harsh reality of their daily lives. It was
while the priest was working in Karesuando (1826-49) that he met
Mary of Åsele
, the
Sámi
woman who inspired him to steer people towards a life of total purity. Following Laestadius's
death in Pajala in 1861, the movement continued under the leadership of Juhani Raattamaa
before splitting into two opposing branches: a conservative western group in Sweden and
Norway, and a more liberal eastern one in Finland. Today tens of thousands of teetotal Swedes,
Finns, Norwegians and
Sámi
across the Arctic area of Scandinavia still follow Laestadius's
teachings; as well as not drinking, they're not allowed to have flowers or curtains in their
homes, nor are they permitted to wear a tie, listen to the radio or watch TV.
