Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
slightly more expensive. Sweden is a country rich in
cheeses , all of which are reasonably good value
and make great sandwich fillers; the range runs
from stronger ripened cheeses such as Västerbotten
and Svecia to milder types like Grevé and Herrgård-
sost. Prästost, a medium-strong cheese akin to a
mature Cheddar, is also a particular favourite here.
(usually called After Work in Swedish) offered at
many pubs and bars. The timing of happy hours is
usually set to coincide with people finishing work,
so keep your eyes peeled for signs either in bar
windows or on the pavement outside. Drinking
outdoors is frowned upon and you're not allowed
to take alcohol onto a train or the street for your
own consumption (drinking alcohol purchased on
trains or pavement cafés is permitted).
Restaurants
Swedes eat their main meal of the day at lunchtime;
do likewise and you'll save lots of cash. You don't
have to restrict yourself to eating out at lunchtime;
many restaurants also offer special deals in the
evening, and even if they don't you're bound to find
something on their menu that will fit your pocket.
Remember that Swedish portions are generous and
that, accordingly, you may not have room for a
starter as well.
An evening meal in a mid-range restaurant will
cost you 150-250kr without alcohol. A three-course
meal naturally costs more; expect to pay something
in the region of 400-600kr, and add around 65kr for
a strong beer, or 250kr for an average bottle of
wine. Dishes usually have some sort of salad
accompaniment and come with bread. Bear in
mind that Swedes eat early; lunch will be served
from 11am, dinner from 6pm. It's always a good
idea to book a table to avoid disappointment,
particularly during the summer months of June to
August when tables can be at a premium. Smoking
is not allowed in restaurant or pubs.
At lunchtime, go for the dagens rätt or set dish
of the day, which generally costs between 70kr and
95kr and is one way to sample Swedish husman-
skost (home cooking). You'll also find various pizza
and pasta dishes on offer in Italian restaurants, and
basic meals in Thai and Chinese restaurants
(sometimes a buffet-type spread). Most cafés also
offer some sort of dagens rätt but their standard of
cooking is often not as good as in restaurants.
While you're in Sweden you should sample a
smorgasbord , available in the larger restaurants
and in hotels for around 350kr - expensive, but
good for a blowout. If you're a traditionalist you
should start with akvavit , drink beer throughout
and finish with coffee. Coffee will be included in the
price, but alcohol won't.
The Systembolaget
In any Swedish town or city, the Systembolaget is
the only shop that sells wine, strong beer and spirits.
It's run by the state, is only open o ce hours
(generally Mon-Wed & Fri 10am-6pm, Thurs till 7pm,
Sat 10am-2pm) and until quite recently kept all its
alcohol on display in locked glass cabinets - this is
still the case in many smaller stores. Debate over the
future of the system rumbles on and Sweden is
coming under increasing pressure from the
European Commission to liberalize the sale of
alcohol and open up the market to free competition.
What to drink
Beer is the most common alcoholic drink in
Sweden, although it can be expensive. Whether you
buy beer in a café, restaurant or a bar, it'll cost
roughly the same, on average 45-65kr for half a litre
of lager-type brew.
Unless you specify otherwise, the beer you get in
a bar will be starköl (also referred to as storstark ), with
an alcohol content of 5.6 percent by volume.
Low-alcohol beers are available for sale in supermar-
kets. Wine in restaurants is pricey; a bottle will set
you back something like 300kr, and a glass around
65kr. It's also worth trying the akvavit or schnapps,
which is made from potatoes, served ice-cold in tiny
shots and washed down with beer. If you're in
Sweden at Christmas, don't go home without
having sampled glögg : mulled red wine with cloves,
cinnamon, sugar and more than a shot of akvavit .
Where to drink
You'll find pubs and bars in all towns and some
villages. In Stockholm and the larger cities the trend
is towards British- and Irish-style pubs, although the
atmosphere inside never quite lives up to the
original. Elsewhere - particularly in the north of the
country - you'll come across more down-to-earth
drinking dens. Drink is no cheaper here, and the
clientele is predominantly male and usually drunk.
In the summer, café-bars spill out onto the
pavement, which is a more suitable environment
for children and handy if all you want is a coffee.
Drinks
Drinking in Sweden can be expensive, but there
are ways of softening the blow. Either forgo bars
and buy your booze in the state-run liquor shops,
the Systembolaget , or seek out the happy hours
 
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