Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SURSTRÖMMING
Mention the word
surströmming
to most Swedes and they'll turn up their noses in disgust. It's
best translated as “fermented Baltic herring” - though to the non-connoisseur, the description
“rotten” would seem more appropriate. The tradition of eating the foul-smelling stuff began on
Ulvön sometime during the sixteenth century when salt was very expensive; as a result just a
little was used in preserving the fish, a decision which inadvertently allowed it to ferment.
The number of
salthouses
producing the herring has dwindled from several hundred early
in the twentieth century to around twenty to thirty manufacturers now. Today,
surströmming
is
made in flat tins containing a weak salt solution. Over the course of the four- to ten-week
fermentation process, the tins blow up into the shape of a soccer ball under the pressure of
the odious gases produced inside. Restaurants refuse to open the tins on the premises
because of the lingering stink that's exuded, not unlike an open sewer; the unpleasant job has
to be done outside in the fresh air.
The
season
for eating
surströmming
begins on the third Thursday in August, ending around
two to three weeks later, when supplies run out. The fish can be accompanied with the yellow,
almond-shaped variety of northern Swedish potatoes and washed down with beer or
akvavit
;
alternatively it's put into a sandwich, perhaps with onion or tomato, all rolled up in a piece of
tunnbröd
, the thin unleavened bread traditional in this part of the country. More information at
W
surstromming.se.
7
INFORMATION
Tourist o
ce
In a tiny wooden hut beside the fishermen's
chapel (mid-June to mid-Aug daily 11am-5pm;
T
0660 22
40 93;
W
ulvon.info). You can rent bikes here and pick up
information about the Ulvöregatta, an annual gathering
for ostentatious yachting types that takes place in
mid-July.
ACCOMMODATION
Färjeläget
Just by the village shop
T
0660 22 41 57,
W
ulvon.com.
Four four-bed pine cabins with cooking
facilities and fantastic views out over the harbour, with ten
other log cabins located
a
10m
in walk u
p the
hill behind
the ha
rbour. Pin
e cabins
925kr
, Fri or Sat
975kr
; log cabins
850kr
, Fri or Sat
950kr
Ulvö Skärgårdshotell
Hamngatan 1
T
0660 22 40 09,
W
ulvohotell.se.
Just to the right of the quay as you come
off the boat, the island's only hotel has cosy, modern rooms
decorated in stylish floral swirls and bold colours with good
views of th
e sea (th
ose in the annexe cost 100kr less). Open
May-Sept.
2048kr
EATING AND DRINKING
If you are self-catering, the village
shop
, at the southern end of Ulvöhamn's main street, has a decent array of provisions.
Out of season, you'll have no choice but to cook for yourself since all eating places close down for the winter. There's a
pleasant
pub
and café below the hotel that buzzes in summer.
Almagränd
Near the tourist o
ce
T
0660 22 41 32.
The place to come for burgers, pizzas and other grilled
mains costing in the range of 150kr. The menu may be less
than stimulating but it's a fine location to dine and enjoy
fantastic views over the harbour from this waterfront
location.
Mid-June to mid-Aug daily 11am-1am.
Café Måsen
Near the tourist o
ce.
A charming garden
café where you can sit outside among the wild flowers and
herbs and enjoy home-baked bread, sublime cakes, salads,
sandwiches and pasta. Run by the gregarious Ruben Madsen
(he of
surströmming
fame, see opposite) who sometimes
appears as a clown.
June-Aug daily 10am-6pm.
Ulvö Skärgårdshotell
Hamngatan 1
T
0660 22 40 09,
W
ulvohotell.se
. This excellent hotel restaurant offers
adventurous main courses (175-345kr) such as duck leg
confit and Merguez lamb sausages as well as a
mouthwatering fish and seafood buffet for 215kr which
includes cold and warm smoked salmon, whitefish, eel,
prawns - plus a dessert.
Mon-Fri 11am-2pm &
6-9.30pm, Sat & Sun 6-9.30pm.
Trysunda
The charming fishing village of
TRYSUNDA
, on the tiny island of the same name, is the
best preserved in Ångermanland, hemmed in around a narrow U-shaped harbour, with
