The southeast - The Rough Guide to Sweden - page 217

THE SOUTHEAST VADSTENA
The Hospitalsmuséet
Mental Hospital Museum • Lastköpingsgatan • Daily: June & early Aug 11am-3pm; July 11am-4pm • 55kr
Just beyond the gates of the abbey graveyard, the Hospitalsmuséet is based in what
was Sweden's oldest mental hospital, dating from 1757 and once called Stora
Dårhuset (“the big loony bin”). The display of terrifying contraptions used to
control and “cure” the inmates includes a spinning chair, which difficult patients
were tightly strapped to and spun until they vomited; an iron bath, in which
patients were tied and then scalded; and a tub, used until 1880, in which patients
were held down among electric eels. The most poignant displays on the first floor
are the patients' own excellently drawn pictures, depicting the tortures inflicted on
them. Also on display are moving photographs of inmates from the nineteenth
century (extensive research having first been carried out to ensure that the people
shown have no surviving relatives).

6

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE VADSTENA

By public transport There are no trains to Vadstena
and getting here from Gränna is circuitous. It's easiest to
return to Jönköping and then take the train, via Nässjö,
to Motala, from where bus #612 runs to Vadstena.
Motala is also easily reached from Örebro and

Norrköping. The main bus stop is in the centre of town,
between the castle and the abbey; there's a twice-
weekly service to Stockholm (4hr).
By car It's a straight run along the E4 and Route 50 north
from Gränna.

INFORMATION

Tourist o ce In the castle (May & Sept Mon-Sat
10am-2pm; June & Aug Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun

10am-4pm; July daily 10am-7pm; Oct-April Mon-Fri
10am-2pm; T 0143 315 70, W ostergotland.info).

ACCOMMODATION

Pensionat Solgården Strågatan 3 T 0143 143 50,
W pensionatsolgarden.se. The best-value alternative to
the pricier hotels, this beautifully maintained villa from
1905 is located in a quiet, central position, with rooms
named after famous artists such as Chagall and Matisse
and featuring prints of thei r work (300kr more for private
facilities). Open May-Sept. 890kr
STF youth hostel Skänningegatan 20 T 0143 765 60,
[e-mail]. This hostel is close to the lake

and barely a 5min stroll from the centre, just up from the
abbey. Advance booking i s essen tial outsi de the mid-June
to mid-Aug period. Dorms 250kr , doubles 500kr
Vadstena Klosterhotel T 0143 315 30,
W klosterhotel.se. Dating from 1369, this hotel is located
in the nunnery next to the abbey and has suitably
atmospheric public areas, though the bedrooms are rather
starkly decorated in mo nastic st yle and could do with
freshening up somewhat. 1650kr

EATING AND DRINKING

Gamla Konditoriet Storgatan 18 T 0143 100 35. This
classic, busy bakery and konditori in a fine seventeenth-
century house is open every day for traditional cakes and
sandwiches. It's also a good choice for a spot of lunch with
quiches and salads. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-4pm,
Sun 10am-2pm.
På Hörnet Skänningegatan 1 T 0143 131 70. An
understated neighbourhood pub that serves great food,
including fresh cod, oven-baked salmon and lamb steak,
all around 179kr. Well worth seeking out for its home-
made burgers which are especially tasty and cost just
149kr. Tues-Thurs & Sun 5.30-11pm, Fri & Sat
5.30pm-1am.
Rådhuskälleren

Informal restaurant set in the cosy cellars of the sixteenth-
century courthouse, with main dishes like fried local char
( röding ) with fennel (195kr) or pork fillet with potato
wedges (155kr). It's also a pub, particularly popular with
locals on Fri and Sat. Wed 6-11pm, Thurs 6pm-
midnight, Fri 6pm-2am, Sat noon-2am, Sun
noon -4pm.
Vadstena Valven Storgatan 18 T 0143 123 40. This is
the smartest restaurant in town with a fantastic-value
weekday lunch special (78kr), and on Sat and Sun there's a
lunch buffet for 95kr. It specializes, though, in fine dinners
such as a delicious poached Vättern char in a lobster sauce
served with glazed leeks (209kr). Mon-Fri
11.30am-10pm, Sat noon-10pm, Sun noon-9pm. Rådhustorget T 0143 121 70.