Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
Hagön , a secluded nudist beach where privacy is afforded by the deep hollows between
the dunes, behind which is a nature reserve.
Båstad
Thirty-five kilometres south of Halmstad, a journey of around twenty minutes by train,
lies BÅSTAD (pronounced bow-sta). The northernmost town in the ancient province of
Skåne , its character is markedly different from other towns along the coast. Cradled by
the Bjäre peninsula (see p.160), which bulges westwards into the Kattegat (the waters
between Sweden and Danish Jutland), Båstad is Sweden's tennis centre , where the
Swedish Open is played at the beginning of July - the centre court down by the
harbour has been newly rebuilt and is truly impressive. The town also boasts an
extremely beautiful setting, with forested hills on the horizon to the south.
There is a downside, though, which can blunt enthusiasm for the place. Ever since
King Gustav V chose to take part in the 1930 national tennis championship and
Ludvig Nobel (nephew to Alfred of the Nobel Prize) gave financial backing to the
tournament, wealthy retired Stockholmers have flocked here, bringing an ostentatious
smugness to the town for the annual competition held during the second week of July.
The locals themselves, however, are quite down-to-earth, and most view this arrogance
as a financial lifeline. Despite all this, Båstad isn't a prohibitively expensive place to stay,
and makes a good base from which to explore the peninsula.
The square and Sancta Maria kyrka
Italienska vägen 2 • Church: June-Aug Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat & Sun 10am-3pm; Sept-May Mon-Fri 8am-3.30pm, Sat & Sun
10am-3pm
From the train station, it's a half-hour walk eastwards up Köpmansgatan to the central
old square and tourist office (see opposite). Once you get close to the centre, you'll see
that the street's architecture is unusual for Sweden, and somewhat reminiscent of
provincial France, with shuttered, low-rise shops and houses. In the square is the
fifteenth-century Sancta Maria kyrka , a cool haven on a hot summer's day. The altar
painting is striking, depicting Jesus on his cross with a couple of skulls and haphazardly
strewn human bones on the ground beneath.
The waterfront
For a feel of old Båstad, take a stroll down the ancient cottage-flanked Agardhsgatan,
off Hamngatan and parallel with the seashore. To reach the beach head down
Tennisvägen, off Köpmansgatan, and through a glamorous residential area until you
reach Strandpromenaden, where you can take a lovely evening stroll as the sun sets on
the calm waters. West of here, the old 1880s bathhouses have all been converted into
restaurants and bars which owe much of their popularity to their proximity to the
tennis courts where the famous tournament is played. Just a few steps further lies the
harbour, thick with boat masts.
Norrvikens Trädgårdar
Norrviken Gardens • June-Aug daily 10am-5pm • 60kr • W norrvikenstradgardar.net
Heading west out of Båstad along the coast road, it's just a couple of kilometres to
Norrvikens Trädgårdar , a paradise for horticulturists and lovers of symmetry. With the
sea as a backdrop, these fine gardens were designed by Rudolf Abelin at the end of the
nineteenth century; he is buried in a magnificent hollow of rhododendrons near the
entrance. The best walk is the “King's Ravine”, ablaze in late spring and early summer
 
 
Search WWH ::




Custom Search